Thailand’s Krabi province is notable for a landscape that rivals a Jurassic Park set. Mountainous limestone outcrops – pocketed with deep, foreboding caves – loom over long, white beaches and lush jungle dotted with palm trees populated by monkeys. The region hugs the country’s southwest coastline and many of the most famous spots are only accessible by boat. Star attractions include the Phi Phi Islands and Koh Phi Phi, where the movie version of Alex Garland’s cult book The Beach was shot (although Garland’s story was based further north at Koh Phangan), along with Railay Beach on the Phra Nang Peninsula.

The peninsula is connected to the mainland by jungle, so is only reachable via boat, and is sought out for its mostly serene beaches, lack of roads and the lauded Rayavadee Resort on the border of Krabi Marine National Park. It’s a 10-minute journey via slim, cigarette-style long-tail boat from the bustling capital, Krabi Town. Zipping past the garishly hued dilapidated junks, decks crammed with fishing nets and colourful characters, you know you’ve reached Railay Beach when the water gradually lightens to that travel catalogue fantasy shade of pale green and ominous jagged mountains appear ahead.

Our boat docks at low tide, which means a small tractor has to tow us the final few metres to shore. Embarking on the beach, we’re swept through an overgrown arch of jungle vines to the ornately carved reception rooms at Rayavadee. As we check in and receive our map of the resort, we realise the sprawling scope of the property: four restaurants, bordered by three beaches and a spectacular and vast rice-paddy-style pool. As long as we don’t feed the crab-eating macaque monkeys and do wear mosquito repellent and stick to the paths, we’re told we should be fine! Guests reside in Smurf-style villas (there are 96): spacious, generous and too cute for words. Set over two levels, concealed by jungle, with thatched roofs and dollhouse-like windows and doors, the charming pavilions are unlike anything I’ve seen before. Interestingly, no trees were cut throughout the entire build of the resort, and all villas and buildings were worked around the existing structure of the jungle to reduce the resort’s impact. Much of the tropical vegetation that surrounds us is labelled – and edible. Tamarind, gooseberry, mango and coconut trees provide ingredients for the Thai recipes on site, and a variety of medicinal plants are used in the spa. Fresh local fruit is delivered daily to guests’ rooms, as is a different tea to try: whole dried orange slices were my aromatic favourite.

Krabi offers something for everybody. It is the definition of tropical paradise, so there is space and sunbeds if you need these, and cocktails aplenty. Or snorkelling and short day trips to idyllic islands, too (there are more than 150 dotted off 150 kilometres of coastline). Thrill-seekers are in their element and rock climbers come from around the globe to attempt challenging hikes or dizzying feats on the cliff faces. At the base of a popular climbing spot on Phra Nang Beach lies the Princess Cave, which is dedicated to an ancient fertility goddess and features a quirky combination of phallic offerings and symbols at its entrance, left in the hope of increased potency and prosperity. While Rayavadee is famous for its exclusivity and privacy, venturing out of the resort is worth it. Wander down Railay Beach and you’ll encounter boats bringing day-tripping tourists (in peak season it can get busy), a handful of other resorts and private houses, and a main street with shops, cafes and a surprising and strange collection of reggae bars complete with Rastafarian bartenders, cheap eats and cruisy beats.

Back in the hotel grounds there are the restaurants and several bars. They are expensive, but the traditional Thai cuisine at Krua Phranang, which specialises in the spicy flavours of the south, is a standout, and the view overlooking Phra Nang Beach and the Andaman Sea not too shabby, either. On a nice evening you can sit on the balcony where the waves crash at your feet, feasting on a whole cooked fish caught metres away. A little way along the beach is The Grotto, which has to be one of the most Instagram worthy dining spots in the world. Cocktail in hand, among a handful of elegant candle-lit tables situated on sand in an ancient limestone cave sitting right on the shore, it really is hard to beat as the sun sets. The tiny kitchen generates a tight but strong menu daily, and lobster, squid and prawns are presented with the flair of a fine diner.

Rayavadee may be large and sprawling, but it’s unobtrusive, secluded and, unless you know it’s there, easy to miss from the main beaches. Krabi can be reached by both domestic and international flights, and is only 60 minutes by air from Bangkok (or a two-hour overland drive from Phuket). It’s the third most popular holiday spot in Thailand after Phuket and Koh Samui, and growing in popularity; it’s certainly the calmest and most laid-back of the three. Think of it as the place to go when you don’t want to do, well, anything.