A couple of hours’ drive south of Bangkok, the once sleepy fishing village of Hua Hin is these days the weekend playground of the capital’s elite. From horse riding on the beach, to night markets, beloved neighbourhood food jewels, luxury hotels and world-class spa facilities, there’s a reason this town has endured as a popular destination for tourists and Thai, alike.

You don’t need to be a train, or even history buff, to appreciate this piece of Thai history. Built in 1911, during the reign of King Rama VI, to transport him to his summer palace in the region, it’s one of Thailand’s oldest railway stations, and certainly one of the most beautiful. ถนน สถานีรถไฟ Hua Hin, Hua Hin District, Prachuap Khiri Khan 77110, Thailand

Come the weekend, Hua Hin comes alive at night, with markets and food stalls lining the streets in neighbourhoods throughout the town. Cicada presents a slightly more polished version of this, with colourful festoon lights, local artists’ wares on display, as well as food stalls and an amphitheatre touting performances throughout the night. A family-friendly night out. (Fri – Sun from 5pm). 83 159 ซอย หัวถนน21 Nong Kae, Hua Hin District, Prachuap Khiri Khan 77110, Thailand

Just a few steps away, Tamarind Night Market presents a bit more of a food-forward affair. The air is alive with the perfume of grilling meat, tropical fruit and live music, so grab a table, designate mates to grab beers, satay, freshly shucked oysters and coconuts, and you’re away! (Fri – Sun from 5pm). 117 75 ซอย หัวถนน 23 Nong Kae, Hua Hin District, Prachuap Khiri Khan 77110, Thailand

There are cooking classes and there are cooking classes. And over the years, the likes of Raymond Blanc and Michel Roux have graced this kitchen with their culinary royal presence. A class here, is a fun, interactive affair that will equip any keen home cook with priceless tips to create healthy, vibrant and tasty food at home, long after the holiday fades. Related story: What to do if your flight is cancelled, according to an airline worker

For 52 years, Ma Jua has been serving up mango sticky rice to tourists and locals alike, in Hua Hin. Ma has since passed, but her daughter now runs the stand. It’s finding these multi generational specialist purveyors who make travelling so worth it, and this sweet, salty, sticky, fruity, rich classic is SO worth seeking out. 33 Naresdamri Rd, Hua Hin, Hua Hin District, Prachuap Khiri Khan 77110, Thailand

Call it 100% humidity, but all over Southeast Asia, you’ll find notable beer snacks including, but not limited to deep fried tarantulas in Cambodia, crickets and here in Hua Hin, dried squid. You’ll see carts touting these spiced, air dried delicacies all over… once ordered, they’re wound through a corrugator and toasted over coal, making them a salty, savoury snack that pairs perfectly with an ice cold beer. Related story: Why you shouldn’t book a hotel room above the 4th floor, and other surprising travel advice

Of the extensive menu on offer at Chiva-Som, this Thai classic receives the spa treatment in a way that you wouldn’t notice the difference. Chewy glass-like noodles are enrobed in rich, tangy sauce, crunchy with vegetables and studded with prawns and tofu. How good’s healthy food that tastes this good?!

Go early. I repeat, go early… if you want to have a chance in hell of getting in! This local coffee shop has been serving up Thai classics beloved in these parts for 70 years. Line up, take your table and order one of everything. There’s tender, aromatic chicken rice, roasted pork and noodle soups aplenty…it’s hawker life at its finest here, sure to fill your soul as much as your stomach. Jek Piek Coffee Shop, 69 7 Petchkasem Rd, Hua Hin, Hua Hin District, Prachuap Khiri Khan 77110, Thailand

For Australians there are no visa requirements for Thailand, just a Thailand Pass, filled out prior to travelling, containing your vaccination information and other details. Thai Airways flies direct from Sydney and Melbourne to Bangkok, from there, Hua Hin is 2.5 hours’ drive south. The writer travelled as a guest of Thai Airways and Chiva-Som. Related story: Melissa Leong’s guide to Slovenia