In the lead-up to the opening of his new restaurant, The Venetian Republic Dining & Bar, Sydney chef and restaurateur Nino Zoccali has just returned from a research trip to Venice, where no culinary stone was left unturned. Here, he lists just a handful of the floating city’s must-visit dining destinations: “Venice does opulence very, very well. From its architecture to its fashion to its cuisine, Venetians are unrivalled in their ability to demonstrate finesse and fortune. Of course, if you’re happy to part with (lots of) your hard-earned dollars, you’ll be rewarded with some of the best food and wine you’ll ever have. But you don’t need to. Quality street food and humble trattorias are not as difficult to find as many believe, and with a little guidance, Venice can show a side that is far from the usual overpriced tourist fare of many of the world’s hotspot holiday destinations. Here are a few of my favourites, ranging from haute cuisine to hole-in-the-wall.”

This unassuming little trattoria on the fishing island of Burano serves possibly the best traditional Venetian food in and around the archipelago. Go for a day trip and enjoy lagoon-fresh seafood and homemade pasta for lunch – the risotto di go looks very basic but is simply stunning. For lovers of whole fish, the sea bass acqua pazza is beautifully classic. Fish comes baked, fried or grilled, combined with organic vegetables sourced from neighbouring islands. Simplicity at its best. Via Giudecca, 88, Burano, gattonero.com

Rich with history, this iconic restored hotel on the Grand Canal boasts some amazing bars and restaurants – both indoor and outdoor. Its dining room is one of the most beautiful in the world, serving a mix of both traditional Venetian and international food of the highest calibre. Whether you choose the grandeur of Restaurant Club del Doge, gondola watching and aperitivo on The Gritti Terrace (April to October only), or an afternoon tea of champagne, finger sandwiches and fresh pastries in Bar Longhi, The Gritti Palace is pure elegance (and an ideal location for celebrity spotting). Campo Santa Maria del Giglio, Venice, thegrittipalace.com.

Just a few minutes from the Rialto Bridge, Enoteca Al Volto – one of the oldest wine bars in Venice – is a favourite among locals and tourists alike. There are more than 1000 wines in the cellar – many of which have their labels plastered on the ceiling – and there’s also an impressive list of local Venetian beers on tap. Enoteca Al Volto is also renowned for its list of cicchetti (bar snacks), including traditional Venetian sandwiches and baccalà mantecato – whipped salt cod, and perhaps Venice’s most iconic dish, as well as a short but sharp list of pasta and seafood bites. Calle Cavalli, 4081, Venice, enotecaalvolto.com.

The only fine dining restaurant in Piazza San Marco, Michelin-starred Quadri is the brainchild of the Veneto region’s most celebrated family of restaurateurs, the Alajmo family. Another absolutely stunning restaurant – possibly my favourite dining room in the world – Quadri was restored earlier this year by iconic French designer Philippe Starck. Despite this, the design is very Venetian, almost super Venetian. The food also takes its cues from the Veneto and Venice region, albeit with a strong contemporary expression. After all, here you are ‘squarely’ in the world of the Michelin star. The ground floor includes a beautifully restored classic Venetian bar and cafe – the latter possibly the most popular, and absolutely the most expensive, spot for a caffeine hit in Venice (and perhaps the world). But the dining room is really what you want to see here, so maybe put the $18 you’d fork out for a latte towards a big night out and head upstairs. Piazza San Marco, 121, Venice, alajmo.it. Photo: Marie Pierre Morel.

If you really want to feel like James Bond, go to JW Marriott Venice on Isole delle Rose – the island of the roses. Guests arrive via courtesy boat to the private island and can take their pick from a range of “wellness and dining experiences”. The restaurant, Dopolavoro, is overseen by legendary chef Giancarlo Perbellini and received its first Michelin star in 2015, just six months after swinging open the doors. If you’re after something a little more relaxed, the Sagra Rooftop Restaurant is a stunning space with spectacular 360-degree views of the lagoon and Venice. The food is Venetian focused international hotel cuisine (in a good way) and the bar offers a nice range of quality cocktails and aperitifs – the perfect Bond-style casual lunch spot. Isola delle Rose, Laguna di San Marco, marriott.com.

This wine bar-come-restaurant-come-tavern is an institution in Venice, and so is its endearing, convivial and totally eccentric owner, Mauro Lorenzon. The moustachioed and bow-tie-wearing master of hospitality is a proponent of natural wine, which features heavily at Enoiteca Mascareta, where the wine-by-the-glass offering changes daily and special attention is placed on regional wines from the north-east. Any wine from the list is available by the glass, and there’s also an impressive selection of gins on offer. The food menu is traditionally Venetian – for example sarde in saor, creamed baccalà, fish stew, and tortellacci filled with branzino. But be warned, you’ll need to head in early or be prepared to wait – this is the kind of place where once you get a spot at the bar, you won’t be leaving any time soon. Calle Lunga Santa Maria Formosa, 5183, Venice, ostemaurolorenzon.com.

With a seafood menu that changes daily and an amazing wine list of local and multi-regional Italian whites, this would have to be one of the most enjoyable places to dine in Venice. It’s a humble little trattoria a few hundred metres from Piazza San Marco that seats about 24, but what it lacks in space it more than makes up for in flavour. Testiere ’s menu includes the classic Venetian squid in black ink sauce with grilled polenta, sea bass fillet with Pantelleria capers and Ligurian black olives, and pumpkin and ricotta ravioli with prawns. Fish is profiled heavily, treated very simply and very well. Whatever you order, you won’t be disappointed. Calle del Mondo Novo, 5801, Venice, oosterialletestiere.it.

The most famous restaurant in Venice (and probably the world), Harry’s Bar is a bucket-list item for any lover of food, fine cocktails and history. Located just off the main square, Harry’s opened in 1931 and has boasted an extraordinary raft of celebrities, international royalty and other famous people on its list of frequent diners over the years – Hemingway was a regular and even hand wrote menus for them, as well as including the venue in a couple of his novels. An institution in Venetian culture and declared a national landmark by the Italian Ministry for Cultural Affairs in 2001, Harry’s Bar has stood the test of time. It’s known far and wide, and charges accordingly (exorbitantly, you could say). But hell, if you invented the Bellini and Carpaccio, wouldn’t you do the same? San Marco, 1323, Venice, cipriani.com.