The exception to this rule is the night market along Galle Face Green in the capital Colombo. Get started with tiny deep-fried crabs, nuts and legumes (perfect beer snacks), but save room for kottu roti – shreds of fresh roti bread, chopped together with barbecued meat and vegetables on a hot plate; Sri Lanka’s answer to Malaysia’s notorious char kway teow, with roti instead of rice noodles. Not sure you’re in the right place? The rhythmic tapping of the metal ‘choppers’ on the hotplate will guide you.

Colombo’s neighbourhoods are numbered into 15 districts; handy to know when asking for directions to your next meal. On the dining front, look no further than the aptly named Ministry of Crab aka MoC (Old Dutch Hospital). One of only two Sri Lankan restaurants to make it into the World’s 50 Best Restaurants Asia (the other is Nihonbashi, also from the same owner, see p 126), MoC is a temple of worship for the bounty that is Sri Lankan seafood and in particular crab. Ranging from small to ‘crabzilla’, each live specimen is cooked to order. It’s a rowdy, hands-on way to experience food in the capital, and wildly popular, so be sure to book ahead.

Continuing on a tour of the capital, Kaema Sutra (Independence Ave) showcases all of the island’s classic dishes in elevated environs. From pol roti (coconut atbread) to hoppers and goat curry, think of it as the essential capsule collection of Sri Lankan cuisine. If some respite from curry is in order, there are certainly places to nd it. Half Sri Lankan, half Japanese chef Dharshan Munidasa shows his passion for his East Asian roots at Nihonbashi (11 Galle Face Tce), a temple to all things rising sun (the crisp prawn tempura hand rolls are a must). While over at August by Mama Aida’s (61 Dudley Senanayake Mawatha), Middle Eastern mezze is the order of the day. Try slow-cooked lamb, studded with pomegranate, it’s about as far from Sri Lankan cuisine as you’re likely to get. When in Galle, a cold rooftop beer and a round of curry with all the obligatory accompaniments is essential and Mama’s, (67 Church St) a cosy casual cafe, is a fort institution for good reason. If some respite from curry is in order, there are certainly places to nd it. Half Sri Lankan, half Japanese chef Dharshan Munidasa shows his passion for his East Asian roots at Nihonbashi (11 Galle Face Tce), a temple to all things rising sun (the crisp prawn tempura hand rolls are a must). While over at August by Mama Aida’s (61 Dudley Senanayake Mawatha), Middle Eastern mezze is the order of the day. Try slow-cooked lamb, studded with pomegranate, it’s about as far from Sri Lankan cuisine as you’re likely to get. When in Galle, a cold rooftop beer and a round of curry with all the obligatory accompaniments is essential and Mama’s, (67 Church St) a cosy casual cafe, is a fort institution for good reason.

Sri Lanka has really upped the stakes when it comes to catering for the traveller in search of discreet luxury. In Colombo, Galle Fort Hotel (28 Church St) may come to mind, but for those truly in search of the top shelf, look no further than Paradise Road Tintagel (65 Rosmead Pl). Ensconced in one of Colombo’s most exclusive neighbourhoods and away from the tourist trails, this former mansion has been converted into ten staggeringly appointed suites, featuring all the royal comforts you’d expect, and then some… just ask Prince Charles, who visited here in 2013.

If what you’re after is a hard drink in a dark bar, uber luxe boutique hotel Paradise Road Tintagel (see Where to Stay) houses an intimate watering hole, The Red Bar, in which to cosy up to a cocktail.

Heading down the coast to Galle, the Amangalla Resort Galle’s (10 Church St) cool tiled verandah is the perfect location o sip a G&T in old world-style, before a white-clothed Sri Lankan feast in the dining room. The Aman Hotel Group’s reputation for creating unforgettable places to stay in Asia is no more apparent than here, and it’s easy to get caught up in the romance of the bygone British Colonial era.

Further south, Cape Weligama Resort (Kalukanda Rd) is perched on rugged cliffs overlooking the dramatic coastline, and there’s no better place to view it than from their crescent-shaped in nity pool. The airy pavilion makes a perfectly good vantage point for sundowners while snif ng the salty Indian Ocean air, and there are a number of accommodation options, from regal suites to family-friendly dwellings. Those intrepid enough to head north in search of ancient ruins should look into Aliya Resort & Spa (Audangawa, Sigiriya), a reasonably new addition to the region, it overlooks ancient rock fortress Sigiriya and may offer the most dramatic sunrise you can witness on the island. Start the day with sun salutations at poolside yoga, followed by a few laps and an ayurvedic treatment to truly get on island time.

Without a doubt, tea is one of Sri Lanka’s best known exports and whether you’re a connoisseur or merely an occasional contemplative sipper, altitudinous tea country is breathtakingly beautiful. Stay at one of the elegant Ceylon Tea Trails (resplendentceylon. com) bungalows dotted among the jade terraces and start the morning with a tour of a plantation to see how the magic is created. From meeting the sari-clad women with incandescent smiles, who pick the tea, to following the leaves’ various transformations and, naturally, learning how to taste tea like a pro, you’ll emerge with a greater appreciation for what it takes to make the perfect cuppa.