Paris’ Gare Du Nord was once a filthy pit of not much good. It’s always been a buzzy, arguably ‘lively’ cartier, with a contemporary history steeped in a historical mix of Indian, African and Bangladeshi influences. Today, it presents with a heightened, more fashionable edge – a new sense of cool that’s not dissimilar to the revamp that’s come to blanket the once tired and tawdry Pigalle red-light area the last five years. Here, the right way to do Paris’ 10th. Words by Richard Clune.

Les Resistants

Owner Florent Piard is all about “good food that respects natural cycles.” What that translates to is a daily menu based on only trusted local producers and a natural simplicity. 16-18 Rue du Chateau D’Eau; lesresistants.fr

Du Pain et Des Idees

Image: Fontaine Photo

They rightly queue for this historical approach to bread making – a true boulangerie without a patisserie line. Incredible. You can’t leave the capital before trying the ‘snail’, if nothing else. 34 Rue Yves Toudic; dupainetdesidees.com

Vivant

Ex-Racines chef Pierre Jancou is one of the best behind the burners. Come for a menu that remains a Parisian standout of small plate ‘new bistro’ freshness popping with unexpected levels of flavour. Or boire un verre at Jancou’s next door wine bar, Deviant. 43 Rue de Petits Ecuries; vivantparis.com

Restaurant Eels

Adrien Ferrand is seen as a Parisian young gun – and here it’s all about fresh, seasonal and new classics, so-called ‘bistronomie’. Tuna carpaccio with tomato marmalade and ponzu sauce? Mais oui. Also, eels! 27 Rue d’Hauteville; restaurant-eels.com

Nola Restaurant and Po Boy Café

One property, two joints collectively known as Two Stories. For when you’re in need of some interesting New Orleans-meets-Creole cooking. Nola is all about contemporary Cajun (hello quail gumbo) while Po Boy is a café with a proud Louisiana accent. 72, quai Jemmapes; twostories.fr

Centre Commercial

Break up all this eating with some solid retail – and CC is a must, with labels including Common Projects and Blue De Paname to AMI, as well as a strong vertical line. 2 Rue de Marseille; centrecommercial.cc/en/

Thankx God I’m A VIP

Another retail tip – this being the best luxury vintage shopping in Pairs. Fact. 12 Rue de Lancry; thanxgod.com/v3/the-store/

Les Arlots

Just near Gare Du Nord – and further proof the hipsters have moved in. Has won awards for its sausage and mash (true) and can also be applauded for its naturals drops. Know there are only 28 seats. 136, Rue du Faubourg-Poissonnière

Hotel Grand Amour

Nothing but big love for this boutique hotel espousing just that. 42 individually designed rooms that are arty-meets-elegant, with some flea market flourishes and a heady use of colour. No TV or mini-bar? No problem as this is Paris, and besides, the downstairs restaurant does everything from burgers to bistro. 18 rue de la Fidélité; grandamour.hotelamourparis.fr

Le Verre Vole

No frills space swinging the menu between mod French and some Japanese influences, all washed down with a seriously deep and enjoyable natural wine list. 67 rue de Lancry Paris; leverrevole.fr

Holybelly Café

For when you need a fresh ‘Aussie breakfast’ – impeccable coffee, great eggs, decent granola and even Vegemite. All with an interior touch of contemporary American diner. All in English too – should you need a break from daily, immersive French lessons. 5 Rue Lucien Sampaix; holybellycafe.com