“I’m not the only one singing the praises of this place; it is an institution,” Kuruvita says. “No-one can get in because it’s so busy. You really do need to book in advance.” At this restaurant, set up by chef Dharshan Munidasa with the help of celebrated cricketers Mahela Jayawardene and Kumar Sangakkara, you can order anything you like as long as it’s crab. The chilli crab, pepper crab and Sri Lankan crab curry are all recommended. 4 Old Dutch Hospital, Colombo, ministryofcrab.com

To taste the wares of Sri Lanka’s most celebrated chef, head for the old-school elegance of the Mount Lavinia Hotel, south of Colombo. “The executive chef, Dr Publis de Silva, has been celebrated for 60 years of service at the hotel, where he started carrying bags of coal. He has really delved deeply into Ayurvedic ideas of food as medicine, and he is a shining example of how that can work: he is fit as a fiddle.” Kuruvita recommends the weekend curry buffet. “It has the biggest variety of food you have ever seen, and it is really authentic.” 100 Hotel Rd, Dehiwala-Mount Lavinia, mountlaviniahotel.com

You will find a market or two in every town or village that you visit. Colombo’s Pettah Market, however, is on a dramatically different scale. “It’s massive: a big old building with this extraordinary market,” Kuruvita says. This is the place to encounter Sri Lanka’s tropical bounty, including wood apples, a bewildering variety of bananas and mangoes, and leafy plants such as gotu kola. Don’t know what you’re looking at? Just ask. “The people are so friendly and they speak English, so just get out there and get among it,” Kuruvita suggests. Keyzer Street, Pettah, Colombo

This orange-skinned coconut is sold on the roadside as a grab-and-go drink, and Kuruvita says that in addition to being a terrific thirst quencher, it is also good for you. “King coconut is packed with vitamins, minerals and electrolytes,” he says. “So much so that during the Vietnam War, they used it for transfusions for people who had lost a lot blood.” More importantly, Kuruvita says, “The flavour is beautiful.”

“This is a restaurant for the common man, and it is a really great option for lunch or dinner, or even breakfast, if you fancy starting the day with a hot cup of milky tea and egg roti,” says Kuruvita. Pillawoos’ menu offers a range of local favourites, from egg hoppers to biryani, but the must-try dish is kottu, a more-ish street food that tosses sliced-up roti with a range of ingredients from vegetables to cheese. 417 Galle Road, Kollupitiya, Colombo, facebook.com/Pilawoos

Need a break from the busy city streets? Dilmah’s chic tea lounges (there are two in Colombo and one in Negombo) offer moments of respite, as well as an excellent pot of tea. “These are little sanctuaries of peace and quiet, as well as a great place to enjoy some local tea,” Kuruvita says. As you would expect, there is range of interesting brews on offer – from Jade Butterfly Handmade White Tea to a rich Single Estate Assam – as well as cocktails, mocktails, waffles, tacos and bruschettas. dilmaht-lounge.com

One of the holiest sites in Sri Lanka, Kataragama is a place of pilgrimage for Buddhists, Muslims and Hindus alike. It is also home to one of the tastiest sweet treats in the country, according to Kuruvita. “All along the road to the temple you will find shops selling kalu dodol. This incredibly tasty black jelly is made with palm sugar, coconut cream, rice flour and cashew nuts, all put into a massive vat and stirred for hours,” says Kuruvita. Just one tip: take a sniff before you buy it. “Everyone does it; you want to make sure it hasn’t been sitting too long and gone rancid.”

Peter Kuruvita hosts two food tours a year with World Expeditions. The 14-day My Sri Lanka with Peter Kuruvita includes stops in Colombo, Kandy, Sigiriya, Uda Walawe National Park and Galle, as well as a range of cooking classes and demonstrations. The next trip departs in October 2019. From $7890 per person. Peter will also lead a 16-day Northern Food Trails itinerary next June, visiting Jaffna, Nuwara Eliya and Wilpatthu National Park, and including cooking classes and demonstrations. From $7390. See worldexpeditions.com