San Diego has come a long way from fishtacos and cheap beer. The laid-back harbour town – formerly known for its US Navy base and not much else – is, these days, giving nearby Los Angeles a run for its money with its golden beaches, craft-beer culture, energetic dining scene and proximity to the Mexican border, just a short drive away. San Diego’s position on the edge of the US makes it a melting pot of cultures, and distinctive hubs have cropped up across the city as a new wave of creatives and entrepreneurs moves in. The revival of downtown Little Italy into a buzzing eat-street lined with smart restaurants, hipster cafes and design stores, along with the transformation of North Park into a craft beer (and beard oil) corridor, and gritty Barrio Logan with its Latinx accent, are highlights around town. Or follow the curves of the Pacific Ocean coastline north to La Jolla, the cruisy beachside spot offering sun, surf and SoCal eating.

The menus might not be strictly Italian anymore, but Little Italy has plenty to offer for a rollicking night out. Ironside Fish & Oyster is a great place to start with freshly shucked oysters and a glass of something celebratory. Sit at booth, bar or table in the cavernous space with theatrical decor straight out of a Baz Luhrmann film set. San Diego’s bounty of seafood is honoured here (fishermen deliver their catch to the kitchen each day), and the lobster roll with brownbutter mayo has gained instant notoriety.

From the same crack hospitality team led by executive chef Jason McLeod is Born & Raised, an opulent steakhouse that evokes the grandeur of Art Deco New York. With its polished walnut panelling, swanky leather booths, green marble tables, sparkling chandeliers and brass detailing, the lavish interior is as much a feast for the senses as the menu of retro classics, from Steak Diane to Tournedos Rossini. Meat is wet- and dry-aged on-site and waiters pushing carts offer dishes such as steak tartare and Shrimp Louie, prepared tableside. Round out one of the city’s most over-the-top dining experiences with a martini on the rooftop cocktail bar.

Celebrity chef Richard Blais’ fine-diner, Juniper & Ivy, is one of the city’s pioneers. The creative menu is ‘modern Left Coast’ – a term as ambiguous as ‘modern Australian’, but which denotes an unapologetic mash-up of cuisines and cultures in a series of bites, small plates and large plates all designed to share – think a Mexican-influenced steak tartare with quail egg, white cotija cheese and jalapeno. Next door is The Crack Shack, Blais’ relaxed bar-cum-canteen proffering fried chicken in all forms – straight up, and in towering burgers and salads. A selection of house-made hot sauces on tap is a highlight.

Still in Little Italy, Cloak & Petal is a sexy spot for cocktails and refined Japanese flavours. The minimalist polished concrete space is offset with a life-sized cherry blossom tree in the middle of the room and graphic installations from Aussie artist Shane Bowden. Perch at the bar, under the canopy of pink petals, for share plates of sashimi, grilled wagyu and yuzu-glazed duck breast.

For breakfast, Minou Creperie has a charming Parisian feel and does excellent buckwheat crepes, including gluten-free options, while Cafe Gratitude is a West Coast icon with various locations serving modern plant-based fare. Come here for your turmeric latte, superfood smoothie and Mexican breakfast bowl loaded with black beans, guac and cashew cheese. Puesto Taco in La Jolla started as a small takeaway joint from a Mexico City family, and has grown into a lively open-plan restaurant serving up queueworthy tacos and margaritas. The tamarind shrimp and chicken al pastor tacos rightfully won gold at the Tacolandia festival, and they are backed up by show-stopping desserts such as mocha tres leches cake, from Jessica Scott, the Food Network’s Dessert Games champion. Must-try: the molcajete salsa made from charred tomato, garlic and jalapeno that adds a moreish smoky, umami flavour to everything from guac to beef tacos.

To satisfy sweet cravings, Portlandbased ice cream parlour Salt & Straw, known for its imaginative flavours and organic ingredients, has landed in Little Italy. Get the inside scoop with generous cones loaded with the likes of violet-hued lavender and honey, and peanut butter stout with chocolate chicharron featuring local Belching Beaver Brewery beer. Any trip to the US requires the consumption of at least one doughnut, and the selection at Donut Bar is as epic as it gets. You’ll see the queue snaking out the door before you encounter the calorific combinations such as creme brulee, mud pie, maple bacon, a vegan strawberriesand- cream number and even a grilledcheese version.

San Diego is a mecca for craft beer and you could easily spend a few days tasting different varieties in North Park. North Park Beer Co. has tasting flights featuring house and guest brews. A must-try is their award-winning Hop-Fu! IPA, which is always flowing. Bivouac Ciderworks is a newcomer offering craft cider in a design-forward space. The sleek interior is designed by architect owner Matthew Austin, whose love of rock climbing shines through in the knotted rope details and earthy textures used throughout. A mod Filipino menu, which showcases California produce in dishes such as ube panna cotta with rice pudding and dehydrated pineapple, is a surprising match for the apple and pear ciders on tap.

Border X Brewing in Barrio Logan is a Chicanx brew house with big-flavoured Mexican craft beer. Try the hibiscusspiked Blood Saison, Horchata Golden Stout with notes of vanilla and cinnamon, and Abuelita’s Chocolate Stout made with bitter Mexican chocolate. There’s Latin Jazz on Thursday nights, and tacos, quesadillas and nachos to soak it all up. Nearby, Por Vida Coffee has a similar aesthetic with graffiti’d walls and Mexican hip-hop. Try the horchata latte for a non-boozy take on Mexico’s sweet rice drink. Bar flies can head to Polite Provisions and Noble Experiment, two speakeasies dedicated to craft cocktails. Sycamore Den has a ‘70s basement vibe and one of the most popular trivia nights in town, while The Grass Skirt in La Jolla is the ultimate Tiki fantasy with a kitsch fit-out, flaming cocktails and poké bowls.

Bar flies can head to Polite Provisions and Noble Experiment, two speakeasies dedicated to craft cocktails. Sycamore Den has a ‘70s basement vibe and one of the most popular trivia nights in town, while The Grass Skirt in Pacific Beach is the ultimate Tiki fantasy with a kitsch fit-out, flaming cocktails and poké bowls