Wake up at Shukubo Fuchinobo, a peaceful temple house on the approach to the city’s famous Zenkoji Buddhist temple. Traditional Japanese decor – tatami mats, lacquered cherry wood furniture and silk screens adorned with cranes – create a luxe Zen atmosphere. Change out of your yukata (cotton house kimono) and walk to the temple for asa-ji, the daily sunrise blessing ritual before breakfast.

The city’s main pedestrian thoroughfare, Chuo Dori, is a straight shot from Zenkoji temple to Nagano train station, and it is lined with street food vendors, tea shops, soba noodle joints and handicraft stores. When you leave the temple, join the crowds standing around one of the steaming wooden pots of oyaki, steamed or grilled fermented buckwheat dumplings stuffed with miso or seasonal veg, perhaps wild greens, aubergine or pumpkin.

Continue down Chuo Dori and stop when you spot the giant matcha soft serve cone coming out of one of the buildings on your right. Choukien tea shop has been serving sencha and matcha for more then a century, but if you prefer to chew your brew, try waffle cones filled with matcha soft serve, flavoured shaved ice or matcha cheesecake.

While tea is in no short supply at tea across across the city, those who prefer beans over leaves can head to modern cafe Maruyama Coffee Midori next to Nagano train station, where seasonal, single-origin beans are used in all manner of extractions, including espresso, siphon, pour over and French press.

We’ve all made the mistake of buying souvenir clothing that seemed like a good idea at the time, but the yukata – the more relaxed, waist-length version of the kimono – is perhaps the most comfortable garment you will ever wear, and it looks great over anything, from jeans to PJs. A concession inside the seven-storey Again shopping centre on the main Chuo Dori shopping strip has bargain prices and an incredible variety of traditional prints.

Nagano produces more miso than any other prefecture in Japan, so it’s no surprise you’ll find it in dishes throughout the day from morning oyaki dumplings to miso soup and even ice cream. Suyakame (625 Nishigo-cho) is a miso ‘cellar door’ combining a brewery and dine-in deli-cafe where you can pick up miso pastes, sweets and pickles before sitting down to grilled rice balls drizzled with a moreish miso soy dressing. Save room for the miso soft serve, which tastes just like salted caramel.

From sake, to miso and craft beer, Japan’s brewing game is strong. Sip your way from Japan to the USA at James Nagano Beer Market, a dark sports bar with exposed brick walls and plenty of bar stools, where craft beers are served with drink-friendly plates. Try Nagano’s own Shiga Kogen IPA with a plate of house-made Hakuba ham.

Return to your temple lodging and bathe in the onsen (Japanese communal bath) before donning your yukata robe for dinner. Shojin ryori is a ceremonial temple meal that celebrates the season through a series of elegant hot and cold vegetarian dishes. Don’t forget to say “i-ta-daki-mas” to show respect for the food before you start.