Endless sunshine, old Hollywood swagger, and chic accommodation all make Palm Springs a place to sit high on your bucket list. It has a rich history of design, with its mid-century modern homes, breathtaking views of both desert and mountains, and great restaurants for a town with only 50,000 residents. On Coachella’s first weekend there are more people at the festival than those who live in this little slice of paradise. A two-hour drive from downtown LA on a good day and a four-hour drive on a bad – either way, it’s a great weekend option. Words by Grant Smillie.
If budget is no consideration, stay at The Parker. This Johnathan Adler-designed icon embodies everything you are looking for in a hotel. Stop in at the chic lemonade stand for ‘spiked refreshments’ under its signature yellow umbrellas; pause for a spot of croquet on the lawn; or rub shoulders with the rich and famous by the ‘adults only’ pool. There’s something for everybody. It’s not cheap, but neither are you.
If you’re looking for a party, you might want to stay at The Ace Hotel & Pool Club. With an edgy Sahara-esque-circa-1950s appearance, the Ace serves my favourite pina colada in the USA at their enormous pool, which often has a DJ by day. The Kings Highway diner is a highlight – the old Denny’s site has been majestically transformed into a great value dining room that still pays homage to its roots. The rooms are kooky and won’t blow you away, but don’t be deterred. After 12 pina coladas you’ll just be laying your head on the pillow anyway.
Apparently at one point this was a church, but there’s not much to suggest that now, other than the towering ceiling heights. The room is impressive with poured concrete walls and floors and an enormous central table that runs the length of the room. Workshop Kitchen is a James Beard Award winner and it serves up seasonal Californian fare – think everything from housemade burrata to wood-grilled scallops, or a whole salt-baked branzino, and an 18-ounce prime rib. That’s if you’ve really worked up an appetite after a hike in the mountains.
Even if you’re not staying at The Parker, you can visit and eat at the latest addition – Counter Reformation, which opened in 2017. As its name suggests, it’s a hidden counter-only wine bar with some delicious small bites to compliment the terrific wine list. Try the Fois Gras macarons and the beef carpaccio with truffled chimichurri and finish with the cheesemonger’s choice from a menu that changes often. You can’t book here – it’s walk-in only so be prepared for a wait at peak hour on weekends.
You can’t forget that Palm Springs is a desert town. From July to September it’s 40+ degrees every day and it can get up to 47 or 48 at times. I tend to steer clear of the place at those times. My favourite time of year to hit Palm Springs is February. There’s nothing like lying by the pool and looking at the deep blue skies and palm trees with pristine, snow-capped mountains in the background. If you really want to catch a cold, get the tram to the top of the mountain for some snow in the morning, and relax poolside in the afternoon sipping cocktails. Perfection.
If you have a spare day while in Palm Springs, make sure you head out to the historic Pioneer Town. It was built as a literal Western movie set and is still functional to this day. You need a permit to take pictures here, but don’t let that deter you. When you roll through town make sure you go straight to Pappy & Harriet’s – it’s a rock ‘n’ roll venue by night and serves up a passable all day/dinner menu of Tex Mex, steak and, of course, bourbon (and lots of it). If you want to stir up your inner Billy The Kid, this is your kind of place.
