Let’s get this part out of the way first: all tequila is mezcal. That may seem confusing, particularly when most of us would be more familiar with the former, tequila is simply a type of mezcal. Kind of like how all bourbon is whiskey, but not all whiskey is bourbon.

What is mezcal?

The name mezcal is derived from the Náhuatl (Aztec language) word for ‘oven-cooked agave’, and refers to Mexican distilled spirits that can be made from essentially any kind of agave (those permitted by the governing bodies, that is). Said to be over 200 species of agave, less than a quarter of these are used for mezcal production. These differing species provide a range of flavour profiles and levels of complexity, bearing some resemblance to grape varietals in the wine world.

What is tequila?

Tequila on the other hand must be produced from the one type of agave – blue agave or agave azul. The best of these have ‘100% agave’ on the bottle, proudly displaying that it’s made entirely from the blue agave plant. Those without? A minimum of 51% of the good stuff, supplemented with non-agave fermentable sugars, sometimes cane or corn. We suggest you steer clear, you’re better than that.

Tequila can also only be produced in specific areas of Mexico, the vast majority of this in the state of Jalisco where its namesake town resides at the base of an extinct volcano, and in the highlands to the east. The rich, red volcanic soils and high elevation (1500m above sea level, and then some) make this an ideal climate to grow agave, a process which can take 10 or more years until fully mature. The natural environment and climatic conditions are of extreme importance, yet another likeness with viticulture, a spirit that truly speaks of place. I’ve always thought mezcal expresses terroir more than any other spirit out there.

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How are mezcal and tequila made?

The inherent ‘smokiness’ of mezcal is a point of difference with tequila, and can be explained through each spirit’s production methods. While both are made from fermented agave juice, their unique cooking processes express themselves in distinct ways, a crucial step in converting the plant’s starches to fermentable sugars.

Traditionally, mezcal production roasts the piñas (the ripened ‘hearts’ of the agave plant) in underground earthen pits, lined with stone, covered with hot rocks, banana leaves and sometimes agave fibres leftover from previous distillations. Usually lasting a few days, sometimes longer, this extended roast can lend itself to sweeter, smokier flavours.

The tequila industry has essentially extinguished such practice, opting for large, above-ground, steam-powered ovens, with larger distillers able to punch out piñas in less than a day, some in mere hours (although without the same depth or complexity). In culinary terms, it’s somewhat the equivalent of using a pressure cooker rather than cooking over fire.

So is mezcal better than tequila?

No, not necessarily, but it’s important we take the time to learn that mezcal is much more than just the smoky one’ with that god awful worm* in the bottle. (*a rubbish marketing ploy, and not a worm at all, but the larvae of a moth that feeds on agave.)

Buen provecho!

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