Kazunari Shata from Tengumai Saké was recently in Australia and told delicious. how the classic rice wine works.
How have you enjoyed your time in Australia?
It’s been great, I have really enjoyed working with Déjà Vu Saké and the other brewery owners promoting our Namazake range. Unfortunately, there was no time for sightseeing this time.
Have you found that Australian people are knowledgable about saké?
Australians are a lot more knowledgable about saké and Japan than they were last time I visited. I was quite surprised by this and think it’s great that people are learning and having more experiences with saké.
Have you found that they are willing to learn?
Yes, very much so. They are not only willing to learn, but also interested in learning more about saké and look at it as another alternative to wine. I found a lot of Australian wine consumers enjoy saké just as much as they do wine, which is very nice.
What do you think Australians are most surprised to learn about saké?
Saké has very simple ingredients: rice and water. After that, that each saké brewery has a very distinctive house style, which has been developed to match the local food and culture of its region, rather than being determined by where the rice comes from. This is how our regionality differs to regionality in the wine world.
Do you think there is a market in Australia for something a little bit different, such as namazake?
Absolutely. Australia is one of the fastest growing markets for saké outside Japan.
In Japan, we enjoy seasonal foods, beverages, and culture, so during year there are a number of seasonably limited saké products, including namazake. This trend is also starting to develop in the US, as consumers are increasingly wanting to experience seasonal saké products, such as namazake. I believe there is the same potential for this trend in Australia, and that namazake will also be popular here.
What countries do you export most of your saké to?
We export to the US and China. The US is the largest saké export market in the world.
Do you prefer nama or non-nama saké?
I like a fuller flavoured saké, so I normally enjoy non-nama sake. Unlike nama, which is a fresh product, non-nama is matured, giving it more depth and flavour through this process.
What is your favourite product that you produce?
Tengumai Yamahaijikomi Junmai is my favourite. It is made in a very traditional way. It is high in umami and has good acidity. It matches a variety of foods (not just Japanese), including meat dishes and different cheeses.
What have the effects of imported Australian wine been on saké production and consumption in Japan?
I am not really wine drinker, but I have noticed there are more and more Australian wines available in many restaurants. So we can see that Australian wine is becoming very popular in Japan. I don’t think this has a negative effect on saké consumption. I think it is good for Japanese consumers to have more variety and choices available.
Is there a place for both wine and saké in Japan? Is there enough market share for both?
I think both and wine and saké can share the market nicely. In Japan, we don’t have the mentality, the idea, that we have too match saké! People enjoy different foods and drinks in a more universal way, and they seek a pairing that best suits them. Japanese wine is also becoming a popular drink choice.
Are their connoisseurs of saké in the way that there are connoisseurs of wine?
Yes, the same as wine connoisseurs.
Is saké culture in Japan very important to people?
Saké is very important in our culture and our religion. We drink saké at ceremonies, weddings and celebrations. Saké has been a big part of our history. Saké is part of our life.
Local consumption of saké was declining for a long time. But the young generation has recently enjoying saké again. This is very very good news for the saké industry, as drinking and loving the national beverage is becoming fashionable.
Tell me a little bit about your brewery and why you personally decided to become a saké producer.
I am the eighth-generation of Tengumai producers. I married the a daughter of a seventh generation producer. In Japan, in traditional industries like the saké industry, if the family only has a daughter, her husband will marry into her family. So I changed my family name to hers, and I am taking over her family business. That is how I am in saké business.
Making saké is very hard work. We make the saké in winter, when it is very cold, and many elements of saké-making still involve human skill and experiences. So it is very much a craftsmanship. But the result is just wonderful. I feel our love for our products, and seeing our customers enjoy our saké, gives us the biggest pleasure.
You don’t need to have a degree to make saké.
I love drinking saké, but I drink lots of water when I drink it! I want to drink saké for longer, and without getting too drunk!
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