The cooler months are s commonly matched to red wines you’d be readily crucified for busting out a crisp sauvignon blanc or even glancing at a tropical fruit cocktail. Cue the fireplace, bear skin rug, the slow-cooked foods and all the woollen garments you own worn at once, then the big, rich red slides in alongside. While all that sounds well and good, I assert that the spirit world also has a couple of handy tipples for defrosting humans and adding value when Jack Frost comes knocking. What most people overlook is how good spirits can be as a complement to dining, a talking point during a meal, or as an aid for digestion. My ideal cooler month dinner party features a raft of spirits. I usually kick off with a cocktail, but something that won’t slap jelly-soled boots onto visitors. A starter that brings a gentle warmth is a hot toddy. Stay with me here, I’m not serving up nanna’s remedy for scurvy and chickenpox rolled into one, instead I’m focussing on high-quality whisky splashed into a warm “tea” of honey, cinnamon and cloves. Most people reach with auto-response to bottles of wine during a meal, but why not try something different? At Chinese restaurants, I’ve seen tables diving into cognac with braises and hot-pots, which got me motivated to try it out. Snap. Great match. Cognac’s savoury spice is a clever pairing for slow-cooked meats. While there’s no one-size-fits-all for spirit matching, there’s some general rules of thumb. Firstly, think about how flavours work in harmony. If you’ve got delicate flavours, try something delicate: vodka goes with borscht like bacon goes with eggs, while cured fish and gin are a surprisingly good combination. For heavier slow-cooked dishes, check out fuller flavoured, darker spirits like whisky (lamb shoulder), rum (herb-crusted rib eye) and Armagnac (game meat and mushroom). Sure personal taste comes into play, but as that draught blows frosty through the kitchen, raise a spirit, red wine can always wait.
A line-up to put you in high spirits