Though logic might lead you to believe that wine – the juice of fermented grapes – is inherently vegan, that is not the case. Words by Matthew Hirsch.
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In order to clarify, soften and stabilise their wines, producers often resort to the use of fining agents such as gelatin, isinglass, egg whites and milk proteins, all of which are derived from animals. These are not considered additives, as they are passed through the wine to attract undesirable particles and eventually filtered out. Nevertheless, minute traces may remain. Vegan-friendly wines, by contrast, are either fined with the help of natural materials such as bentonite clay, carbon and limestone, or completely unfined and unfiltered. Some wineries choose to embrace additional aspects of low-intervention production, like organic or biodynamic farming and the use of wild yeasts, while others stick to a more conventional script. These eight wines showcase a spectrum of vegan-friendly styles for all palates and price points.

Stoneleigh Sauvignon Blanc, 2018, Marlborough, $9.90
As of 2020, Stoneleigh – one of Marlborough’s best-known labels – is not only 100 per cent certified sustainable by Sustainable Winegrowing NZ, but also entirely vegan across the portfolio. That gives plant-based and ethically conscious fans of its much-loved sauvignon blanc even more reason to celebrate. The wine offers all the trademark attributes in spades: a vibrant tropical joyride packed with passionfruit and melon, lime peel, gooseberry and grass. Those paying more attention might also latch on to some subtle herbaceous and vegetal flavours. Either way, refreshment and enjoyment are the ultimate watchwords here.

Running with Bulls Tempranillo, 2018, Barossa Valley, $19.95
Tempranillo has come a long way from its days as a so-called ‘alternative variety’, rising through the ranks of Australia’s wine scene to secure a spot among the country’s most frequently sought-after medium-bodied reds. This punches well above its weight, deep purple in the glass and brimming with scents of blackberry, dark chocolate, redcurrant, nutmeg and Sichuan pepper. Some touchstones of Spanish tradition, but lots of timeless Barossa character in the mix here as well. It’s a quaffing wine, but the use of some new oak adds weight and roundness to the equation.

See No Evil Organic Rosé, 2019, Multi-regional (South Australia), $16
No Evil wines do a mean job of proving that ethically made, low-intervention wines don’t have to cost an arm and a leg. All grapes are sourced from certified organic vineyards around South Australia, and the wines are entirely free of additives apart from a minute amount of sulphur added at the time of bottling (30ppm to be exact, which is the EU guideline for minimal preservatives). Grenache, shiraz and a bit of ruby cabernet comprise this patio pounder, which bristles with watermelon, rose petals, red berries and cream. It aims to please, and it really does.

Stefano Lubiana Brut Reserve, NV, Derwent Valley (Tas), $39.99
Those on the lookout for an elegant and elevated sparkling wine should stop right here. Steve and Monique Lubiana are widely regarded as benchmark producers of Australian bubbly, and one sip of their multi-vintage brut reserve makes it easy to understand why. A blend of biodynamic estate-grown chardonnay and pinot noir, the wine is simply radiant: a patchwork of crunchy red apples, toast, lemon rind and honey, with a rich complexity that comes from two years spent on lees. It’s a smart choice for a special celebration, and the value for money is outstanding.

Stonier Pinot Noir, 2018, Mornington Peninsula, $24.95
Stonier began as a hobby farm on the Mornington Peninsula, with plantings that date back to 1978. Today, the winery that’s grown out of those humble beginnings has become one of the most reliable names in the business of reasonably priced pinot noir. This latest release exhibits highly favoured hallmarks of the varietal: aromas of cherries and raspberries, which dance on the darker end of the red-fruit spectrum on the tongue, backed by a tickle of oak and a hint of spice. Soft tannins balance the sappiness and make it a perfect partner for earthy Indian curries.

Sutton Grange Winery Fairbank Rosé, 2019, Bendigo, $34.95
While producers the world over aim to put out ‘classic, pale and dry’ rosé, few get the style as right as Sutton Grange. The central-Victorian outfit has developed a loyal following for its structured and sophisticated wines, and this salmon-tinted blend of organic syrah, sangiovese and cabernet sauvignon follows suit. Big bursts of wild strawberry, cranberry and burnt orange take hold on the nose and don’t let go on the palate. There’s a lot going on in the background, too – green herbs, aniseed and the lengthy pucker of pink grapefruit. All that’s missing is sunshine and a picnic rug.

Dr Loosen ‘Dr L’ Riesling, 2016, Mosel (Germany), $19.95
Top-shelf German rieslings often command eye-watering prices, but Dr. Loosen’s ‘L’ delivers the goods without breaking the bank. Year after year, it does what it sets out to do, providing drinkers with an approachable snapshot of the Mosel Valley’s steep slopes and cool climate. Expect vivid notes of chopped Granny Smith apples at the height of their ripeness, along with white flowers, a light squeeze of lime and a touch of wet slate. Even those that tend to shy away from sweeter styles will be able to appreciate this one, especially with fiery Southeast Asian fare.

Fraser Gallop Estate Cabernet Sauvignon, 2018, Margaret River, $33
Even in a region chock full of high-calibre cabernet sauvignon, Fraser Gallop Estate’s wines make a bold impression. The Estate Range wines may not spend quite as much time on oak as the more premium offerings, but by no means do they want for personality. Layers of crushed blueberries, blackcurrants, bay leaves, cedar and cacao dominate the 2018 Estate cab sauv, which has a smidgen of petit verdot blended in for good measure. Despite the seriousness of the wine, the drinkability factor remains high thanks to its medium body, taut tannins and natural acidity. Start prepping that tagine.
What’s in wine that’s not vegan?
Producers often use fining agents to clarify and stabilise their wines, a number of which are derived from animals. Examples include egg whites, gelatin and proteins derived from milk or fish. While they are precipitated out together with other unwanted solids, small traces might be absorbed into the wine.
Are all wines suitable for vegans?
Not all wines are suitable for vegans. Processing aids such as caseins, egg whites, isinglass and gelatin – all animal byproducts – are frequently used to make wines more clear and bright. While they are not considered additives, they are passed through the wine in order to attract and extract large particles.
How do you know if wine is vegan?
Checking the label is the easiest way to know if a wine is vegan. While not all makers choose to label wines ‘vegan friendly’, Australian wineries are required by law to state on the label whether any milk, fish or egg products have been used in the production process.

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