When you’re cooking lamb, the wine pairing options can seem limitless. Words by Matthew Hirsch.
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Lamb has a pronounced taste that’s rather difficult to pin down. Some people call it gamey, while others like to think of it as grassy or earthy. If the animal is young, the meat is likely to be slightly sweet and tender, whereas older sheep such as hogget or mutton and fattier cuts such as the breast tend to be more pungent.
There are no cast-iron rules dictating that white wines and rosés won’t pair well with lamb, but it’s safe to say that red wines are typically more successful. As always, let the part of the animal, the temperature and the other components on the plate guide your decision. Though possibilities border on endless, these eight bottles are an optimal starting point.

Amisfield Pinot Noir, 2018, Central Otago, New Zealand, $49.99
Pinot noir has the potential to partner with all manner of lamb dishes, but opting for a more opulent style that can stand up to the meat’s intense flavour is a smart way to go. Amisfield is one of New Zealand’s most consistent benchmark producers, known for a bold slant that celebrates the singular character of Central Otago on the South Island. Signature notes of red fruits, rose petals, dried herbs and licorice dominate the bouquet, giving way to a plush palate layered with oak, pepper and other woody spices. It feels generous from start to finish, bolstered by firm, gravel-like tannins; a reliable winner.

Voyager Estate Girt by Sea Cabernet Merlot, 2017, Margaret River, Western Australia, $23.99
A lamb roast and a red Bordeaux blend is about as classic a food and wine pairing as you’re ever likely to find. Voyager Estate’s ‘Girt by Sea’ is a decidedly medium-bodied New World-take on cabernet merlot and a mighty approachable one at that, thanks to its palatable price point and high drinkability factor. Fruit is certainly the focus here – ripe red and black currants, plums and mulberries – but there are plenty of savoury elements mixed in. Cedar, tobacco and cocoa all poke through, along with bay leaf and baking spices. Everything’s just so well integrated, which makes for a smooth, juicy ride.

Chalmers Aglianico, 2011, Heathcote, Victoria, $39.99
The Chalmers family has been a pivotal force in Australian-Italian winemaking for more than two decades, and their aglianico continues to be a standout release year-on-year. The grapes are harvested by hand, spontaneously fermented, basket pressed and aged in seasoned chestnut barrels, giving rise to a serious wine that’s equal parts rustic and refined. A jumble of cranberries, blackberries and sour cherries ripples across the tongue, but there’s also a lavender perfume, amaro bitterness and leathery grip to it, too. It’s geared for scottadito-style chops hot off the grill, with enough racy acidity to cut through a sticky ragù.

Alvaro Palacios ‘Camins del Priorat’, 2019, Tarragona, Spain, $66
Priorat county is prized for assertive, muscular grenache-led blends high in both tannin and alcohol – perfect, in other words, to pour alongside charred fatty cuts or meat with a stronger taste, such as mutton. Álvaro Palacios is one of the region’s true pioneers, and while his high-end cuvées command eye-watering prices, ‘Camins del Priorat’ is a righteous introduction to his unmistakable touch. It’s utterly complex: overflowing with concentrated bluish-black fruits and an undercurrent of rose petals, pure cacao, flint and smoke. Time in the decanter will mellow the tannins and let you appreciate the long, chewy finish in all its glory.

Lulu l’Alouette Chinon, 2018, Loire Valley, France, $19.99
Organic Loire Valley cabernet franc from a cherished appellation for less than $20 sounds almost too good to be true, but thankfully that’s not the case. This is very much a youthful example, driven by lively aromas of raspberry and wild strawberry. You’ll notice flavours of slightly denser purple fruits on the mid-palate, in amongst hallmarks such as stalks, stems and green leaves. It’s just shy of medium in terms of weight, with an ample amount of crunch and mouthwatering acidity. Give it a slight chill and crack it in the company of merguez sausages and salads at a summer barbecue.

Pirramimma White Label Petit Verdot, 2016, McLaren Vale, South Australia, $28.99
Though it’s usually found in blends, petit verdot can be worthy of standalone status. Indeed, Pirramimma has been flying the flag for single-variety petit verdot for more than two decades, and it shows no signs of slowing down. All the ripeness and roundness you’d expect from a big McLaren Vale red wine is writ large here, within a framework of brambly fruits, cassis and violets. It’s jammy to a degree, but levelled out by musky, minty and briny edges, as well as a hefty stamp of oak. The right call if a tagine or a similarly rich stew or braise is on the menu.

Castagna Growers’ Selection Harlequin White, 2014, Beechworth, Victoria, $39.99
Lamb and white wine can be a tricky business, but Castagna proves that a little skin contact goes a long way. ‘Harlequin’ is an intriguing blend of chardonnay, savagnin, riesling, roussanne and viognier – Beechworth by way of the Jura and Côtes du Rhône, if you will. It pours a deep yellow-gold and offers up eye-opening scents of potpourri, baked nectarines, red apple skins and barley water. Hints of cashew nuts, bergamot and resinous herbs all add texture, and the powdery tannins will easily compete with the creamy sweetness of lamb korma or temper the heat of a vindaloo.

Pittnauer Zweigelt Heideboden, 2017, Burgenland, Austria, $29.99
Gerhard and Brigitte Pittnauer have made a name for themselves by introducing Austrian grape varieties handled with minimal intervention to the world of everyday drinking. Zweigelt, Austria’s most widely planted red grape, lands somewhere between pinot noir and shiraz. The wine opens with bursts of dark cherry fruit and blood plums, but black pepper, game meat and charcoal find their way into the fold. There’s depth of flavour galore, despite the relative lightness in body. Frisky acidity, tinged with the tang of orange zest, sends it off on a fresh and fragrant high.
What works best, red or white with lamb?
On the whole, red wines are a far better match for lamb than white wines. Of course, this all depends on how the meat is prepared and what else is on the table. Generally speaking, however, whites just don’t have the guts or tannins to withstand the funky flavour.
What is the best wine to pair with a rack of lamb?
There’s limitless potential when it comes to pairing wine with a rack of lamb. If you’re choosing to cook it rare, go for something light, bright and fruity such as gamay or pinot noir. If you’re cooking it longer or encrusting it with herbs, try something spicier and more robust like Chianti.
What’s the best wine to serve with lamb shanks?
Lamb shanks call for heartier, succulent wines that have no trouble going up against one of the more gamey cuts out there. Cabernet sauvignon, grenache and shiraz all make for a good start but, if you’re feeling more adventurous, have a look at carménère, nero d’Avola or primitivo.

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