Wine + Champagne

The Critic and the Comic: Best wines to pair with your winter greens

Critic and comic August

Mike Bennie and Merrick Watts discuss the unique approach to no-waste winemaking and offer their top matches to a use-it-up winter greens torte.

Mike: Our zero-wastage credentials for drinking whole bottles of wine are high.

Merrick: It was before I knew you that you recycled everyone’s spit, wasn’t it?

Mike: Spit-bucket brandy! It was amazing. There’s no real concept of nose-to-tail in winemaking, but the closest thing is whole-bunch reds. You cut the grapes off the vine and ferment the entire bunch with the grapes hanging off the stems. It creates a more complex red wine where there’s perfume, slipperiness and texture from the greenness of the stems. You get all the detail, not just the berry and the juice. So for me, if you’re going to do sustainable holistic food stuff, you need to do the same with wine. The stems usually go to livestock and the skins can be re-fermented into a light, refreshing piquette or distilled into grappa.

Merrick: What about ripasso? Where you’re re-passing the juice over the skins

Mike: Exactly. Ripasso… That’s Italian for pizza isn’t it?

Merrick: What! Here I was thinking pizza was Italian for pizza. My mum’s family grew up poor in Broken Hill and it’s given me an real objection to waste. So with this dish I look at all those greens and I love it. I love chard and things people don’t usually like. And I love cavolo nero. With cavolo nero I’d go for a nero d’avola because they both have the word ‘nero’ in them.

https://healthimprovements.info/recipes/winter-greens-torte/xg0h6co3

Mike: I saw this dish and thought: beer. For me, this is a dish that has requisite and pleasing bitterness and therefore something bitter alongside, but not quite bitter. A sour beer would be a wonderful accompaniment. And you’ve got that cornucopia of greenery and a hit of chilli, then the sour tang of a beverage alongside. I am in a place where balance and all the nuance of dish-versus-final- condiment-in-glass work in synergy.

Merrick: Right. I am going to see your synergy and I am going to match it like a yin and yang. So you’ve got this beautiful cornucopia of green, the iron-rich nature of the greens, and I am just going to chuck in a Baileys on ice. Why have it in your cupboard and not use it? When is Nan coming to drink it? She’s not coming! Either break out the Baileys and have it with some cavolo nero, or just break it out and decide it’s a party night and white Russians for everyone.

Mike: You know where I stand on that.

Merrick: I’m hearing it’s a no.

THE CRITIC’S PICKS

WILDFLOWER AMBER #26, $25

A wild-ferment beer from artisan brewer Wildflower. Exotic, exciting and delicious, it’s yeasty in its aromas but all pulpy grapefruit zestiness to taste. This has the requisite sour tang and pleasing bite that finds harmony with winter greens.

WILDFLOWER AMBER #26, $25

SERRURIA SAUVIGNON BLANC 2019, $25

Two female winemakers crafting incredible white wines from regional New South Wales, this is not your average sauvignon blanc, offering exuberant aromas and freshness that reset the palate after each mouthful. A wonderful drink for this dish.

SERRURIA SAUVIGNON BLANC 2019, $25

M&J BECKER HUNTER VALLEY SYRAH 2019, $25

You wouldn’t think winter greens and shiraz go together, but this peppery, spicy red is just right. It’s medium-bodied, all red berry fruits and clove/ cinnamon characters and just feels darn dangerously drinkable. That spice with the dish? Greatness.

M&J BECKER HUNTER VALLEY SYRAH 2019, $25

THE COMIC’S WILDCARD

NERO BY BRASH HIGGINS, MCLAREN VALE, $45

This is almost too healthy a dish. But seriously, earthy wine for an earthy meal. Enjoy!

NERO BY BRASH HIGGINS, MCLAREN VALE, $45

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