Mention ‘California’ and “wine”, and most people blurt back “Napa Valley”. Continue, and their instinct is to talk about bombastic cabernet sauvignon, full-flavoured pinot noir and lush chardonnay. What a lot overlook is not only the diversity of California wine regions, but also a shift that celebrates lighter, fresher, more food-friendly styles. A generation of growers and makers is embracing a less-is-more mantra, celebrating old vines and interesting grape varieties, and moving well beyond Napa’s staples. “One of the most exciting things going on in California is yet another wave of young winemakers coming to the fore with their own new projects,” says winemaker Matt Rorick of Forlorn Hope Wines. Rorick produces an eclectic, excellent range of whites and reds, often slightly wild-edged in personality, but satisfying for their high drinkability and complexity. John Lockwood of Enfield Wine Co. is on a similar path. “The rules are changing, and the next generation is trying a lot of new things,” he says. “For those who prefer a lighter-handed style of wine, the choices and access have just exploded, while the old guard is still going strong.” In a neat parallel with our avant-garde winemakers, unusual or lesser-known grape varieties are being celebrated, while wines are shifting to better suit the eating and drinking landscape. The great thing is that California wine is perhaps at its most diverse and exciting for the uninitiated or curious drinker. “With so many new producers bringing a broad array of wines to the market, there’s something for everyone,” says Rorick. Lockwood agrees: “The next challenge may be sorting through too much good wine.” For intrepid drinkers, California wine often comes with a serious price tag, courtesy of import duties, taxes and the exchange rate. However, importers have gifted us wines that are among the greatest to grace Australian shores.

A succulent red with grace and a lovely, seamless flow. This style has a good dash of peppery spice and herbal character that’s sprinkled over juicy, dark berry fruits. It’s beautiful drinking.

Chenin blanc in the wrong hands can go limp and sweet, but when cajoled by experts, it takes on a tonic-water-like freshness and ‘botanical’ complexity, with mouthwatering acidity and vitality. This is definitely the latter.

Sandhi is the work of two wine industry professionals who were determined to elevate the offering of fine, fine-boned pinot noir from California. This is fragrant, silky, beautiful wine. Find some confit duck, ASAP.

Yangarra’s parent company is the prestigious California winery Kendall-Jackson, with winemaker Pete Fraser crafting a range of wines wholly reflective of McLaren Vale terroir. This delicious preservative-free shiraz is juicy, bright and spicy. Ideal for a light chill, too.

Ribolla gialla is a white grape from Friuli in Italy, though it now finds a home on the Matthiasson estate, among other Californian vineyards. This example is wildly perfumed, crunchy, deeply flavoured and utterly compelling.

In the California ‘off-season’, winemaker Matt Rorick (Forlorn Hope) helps out his mate Jaysen Collins at Massena in the Barossa Valley. The wine that results from this combination of different whites is crunchy-textured and refreshing.