The party is back on at iconic Adelaide restaurant, Aces. Sure, the location may have changed, and they’ve swapped the pizza for pasta. Oh, and there’s a DJ now, too. But it’s all about the vibes, says Aces culinary director and co-owner Tom Tilbury. “It’s fun and welcoming, just like the original Aces used to be,” he says.

Aces Bar & Bistro has been a fixture of the Adelaide Central Market for almost 30 years. The venue opened in 1993 by Enzo Fantasia, who ran the restaurant with his son Andrew up until a change of ownership in 2019. The venue closed soon after, in early 2022.

A new partnership between the Fantasia family, investor FRP Capital and chef Tom Tilbury has brought the venue back to life in a new location, on the corner of Gouger and Moonta streets, across from the iconic Chinatown paifang archway.

The trump card is, of course, Tom Tilbury, founder of Gather at Coriole and executive chef of Press* Food & Wine. Tilbury’s menu ditches the old-school pizzas for a fresh new offering of handmade pastas and Italian share-style mains.

Pasta is extruded fresh each day. The spaghetti vongole pays tribute to the restaurant’s Chinatown setting. “It’s my take on the famous Golden Century noodle dish,” Tilbury says. “I’ve made it more Italian, with a luscious chicken stock which is emulsified with butter, oyster sauce and a mushroom soy.”

The lobster ravioli is already a firm favourite. The fresh pasta pillows are filled with sweet lobster meat and creamy bechamel, served in a lobster bisque made from roasted-down shells. “It’s topped with chilli crisp; another little nod to Chinatown,” Tilbury says.

For something more substantial, groups can share the 800g dry-aged bistecca or the parmesan and herb-crusted veal cotoletta in Sunday sauce. “Sunday sauce is just that classic tomato sauce that Italian families make on Sundays,” Tilbury explains. “We make it every day, though.”

Desserts keep to the theme with a luscious baba al limoncello, soaked in a boozy limoncello syrup, topped with lemon curd, creme anglaise and olive oil. “The baba is hot and the custard is cold, which is a really nice contrast,” Tilbury says. “And it’s poured at the table for a bit of theatre.”

Swing by at lunchtime to try the ‘yum ciao’, an Italian take on Chinese yum cha. “You’ll get a tick-box menu, where you can tick how many items you want, and it comes out as a sprawling feast of small plates,” says Tilbury, who recommends putting a tick next to the mozzarella fritters with white anchovies, and the mortadella buns filled with pork crackling and sweet pickle.

The two-storey venue is just as delightfully retro as it always was, only this time they’ve looked to the ’80s for inspiration. “Downstairs will be more like the old Aces – Rat Pack vibes, Frank Sinatra playing, dark and moody table lamps and red carpet,” Tilbury says.

Upstairs will be more high energy, with an open kitchen, a long bar that spans the length of the room and a retro Italian soundtrack. “It’s a bit of fun,” Tilbury says. “After you have your meal, you can break out and have a dance.”

Join Aces for its first-ever house party on May 8 as part of American Express delicious. Month Out. The exclusive event will include a special 7-course snack menu created by Tom Tilbury, complete with drinks and music. Details here. 

Aces
96 Gouger St, Adelaide
Tue – Sat, 5ppm until late
aceschinatown.com