Bansho is all about balance. The new French-Japanese bistro in the inner suburb of Armadale in Melbourne was named after a Japanese-Buddhist word that means ‘all-encompassing’.

And it’s a concept that co-owner Larry Xie says was chosen as a declaration of intent. “We named the restaurant Bansho because we wanted it to represent the kind of restaurant we wanted to be, as in French and Japanese. Bansho is a fusion of these two cuisines because they are both timeless and elegant and work exceptionally well together,” he says.

Bansho is the first foray into the Melbourne dining scene by Xie and his partner Mira Wu, who together ran two Mugen House Japanese restaurants in the city of Adelaide and Glenelg before returning to Melbourne, where Xie grew up. The couple met in the US in 2014 when they were both studying architecture at the Art Institute of Chicago and Larry says Bansho was created out of their shared love of dining and design. 

“My parents had cafes and motels when I was growing up so it wasn’t a huge stretch to move into hospitality. I was working as a curator in a gallery and my wife was working in an architecture firm when my parents talked us into applying our knowledge in the art and design world and moving into hospitality,” he says.

“What really convinced me to do that was a very memorable meal we had in Chicago at a restaurant called Blackbird [now closed] which had two Michelin stars. It was our first experience in Michelin dining and it had such a strong impact on us both,” he says.

After moving back to Melbourne and months of planning, Xie and Wu opened the bistro in September 2023 and brought chefs Tomotaka Ishizuka (ex-Ishizuka, Kisume, Koko) and Yoonho Chang (ex-Lume and Copenhagen’s revered Geranium) onboard.

“We spent about three months trialling the menu before we opened. Some of the mains went through five or six iterations until we felt we had it just right. Our signature would have to be the koji-marinated duck breast with smoked eggplant, black garlic puree, beetroot and sansho pepper in mirin jus. It’s visually appealing and rich in umami,” says Xie.

Sushi highlights include: the kombu-jime – cured King George whiting, ponzu, shio kombu, raw prawn, paradise prawn and yuzu zest; and the otoro bluefin tuna belly. Xie says residents in the well-established neighbourhood of Armadale are also enjoying the Japanese A5 wagyu, assorted tempura and plant-based sushi. He says the go-to for dessert is the Choux au Craquelin with house-made choux pastry and freshly prepared matcha cream.

Xie and Wu drew on their design skills for the fit-out and the warm, inviting space is part of their ‘all-encompassing’ vision: to create a memorable experience for diners. The gilded space tilts towards texture with parquetry floors, brushed brass, deep brown leather chairs and a warm colour scheme throughout. It’s also carved up into different spaces: there’s a counter-top for sushi and sashimi and beautiful velvet banquettes and round tables for a la carte dining.

“The space was an empty shell when we moved in and to be able to use our own design principles with the fit-out was fantastic as that whole process has allowed us to achieve a very high-end feel for the restaurant,” he says.

Xie and Mira also consulted with local sommeliers to design a succinct drinks list with a mix of top French drops, wines from local producers and premium sakes. 

The theatrical interiors take their cues from the gilded age and Art Deco era. Xie says he chose to open the bistro in Armadale as he believes it to be a suburb on the move. “Armadale used to be just a lot of bridal shops. But the high street is transforming and the area is becoming a more hospitality-friendly neighbourhood. It’s exciting for us to be at the forefront of that change,” he says.

Bansho
960 High St, Armadale
Tue – Sat 5:30pm – 10:30pm
0493 707 391
banshodining.com