When one of the most recognisable chefs in the world says your restaurant is “on par with any two- or three-starred Michelin restaurant in Europe”, it’d be hard to stay humble. But chef Victor Liong takes it in his stride: “He’s very generous with his praise and he’s a big supporter of our work.”

Liong’s restaurant Lee Ho Fook has been a Melbourne institution for more than a decade, but it made headlines recently when celebrity chef Gordon Ramsay dined there – and raved about it.

“Lee Ho Fook in Melbourne is just incredible,” Ramsay said. “It’s a tiny restaurant but really, really good. It’s on par with any two- or three-starred Michelin restaurant in Europe, and delivered with such perfection.”

Related story: Gordon Ramsay names Melbourne fine-diner on par with Michelin-starred restaurants

Now, Sydneysiders can get a taste of that perfection with the arrival of Lee Ho Fook’s second location. The new outpost is housed in The Porter House Hotel on Castlereagh Street.

Of course, the signature small plates feature on the menu – prawn toast with Tasmanian sea urchin, and the crispy eggplant with spiced red vinegar – along with produce-driven mains like steamed Glacier 51 toothfish with silken tofu and Kung Pao Skull Island prawns. But Liong’s leaving room for some Sydney sensibilities, too.

Credit: Parker Blain

“I’m excited to bring all the signature dishes from Melbourne to Sydney, but I’m not going in with a rock solid direction. I’ll bring a lot of signature dishes and cuisine styles to Sydney, but the rest of it is just seeing what the guests want,” the chef said.

Helping him in this mission is Liong’s sister, Nianci, who brings a wealth of hospitality experience into the role of restaurant manager (“her CV is probably as good as mine, if not better,” Liong said), and head chef Brad Guest, who will help translate Liong’s innovative Chinese-Australian approach into produce-driven, seasonal menus for Sydney diners.

“I’m hoping that diners have a very similar dining experience to Melbourne, it just saves them the flight,” said Liong. “We’re still modern Chinese, using high quality Australian ingredients and cooking with a creative Chinese lens, exploring the different flavour profiles and cuisine styles of China, but interpreting them with Australian ingredients.”

And the one dish Liong is most excited about bringing to Sydney?

“We’re known for our crispy eggplant dish, so I’m excited to be cooking eggplant for our Sydney guests,” says Liong.

Credit: Parker Blain

If that dish rings a bell, it could be because it’s the one Ramsay raved about (“I’d never tasted anything like them,” he said).

“Hilariously, he sent me a message after saying ‘Hey, can I have the eggplant recipe?’” Liong laughs.

And did he send it?

“Of course, of course! We’re generous when sharing with our friends here at Lee Ho Fook.”

Lee Ho Fook is open for lunch Wednesday – Sunday and dinner Monday – Saturday. 

Lee Ho Fook
The Porter House Hotel
203 Castlereagh Street, Sydney
https://trippaswhitegroup.com.au/whats-on/lee-ho-fook-at-porter-house/