Eat Out

One of the Mornington Peninsula's most iconic winery restaurants has been completely transformed

The new dining room at Crittenden Restaurant on the Mornington Peninsula
The new Crittenden Restaurant dining room.
Credit: Supplied

Crittenden Restaurant is back in the hands of one of the Mornington Peninsula's first families of wine.

For more than four decades Crittenden Wines has produced some of the finest cool-climate wines in a region now world-famous for them. The reopening of Crittenden Restaurant today marks a new beginning for the family-owned institution.

Mornington Peninsula is one of Victoria’s favourite destinations for food and wine, dotted with million-dollar cellar doors and breweries and thriving regional restaurants. Back in the early ’80s though, you were more likely to spot beachgoers and cows than roaming long lunchers on the headland just beyond Melbourne’s eastern reaches.

Crittenden Wines on the Mornington Peninsula
The lakeside villas as Crittenden Wines.
Credit: Chris McConville

It was early pioneers like Garry and Margaret Crittenden that turned the tide. When horticulturist Garry planted his first vines on a pretty site in Dromana, wrapped around a lake he’d created, he doubled the Peninsula’s wine plantings from five acres to 10 overnight. A decade later, it was Margaret’s idea to start offering food, kickstarting one of the region’s very first winery restaurants. Their children Zoe and Rollo Crittenden aged into the business: Rollo as winemaker and GM, Zoe as director of marketing.

Villas and lake at Crittenden Wines on the Mornington Peninsula
The villas overlooking Garry’s lake.
Credit: Supplied

When Margaret fell ill 20 years ago, the family regretfully leased her restaurant to an outside operator. Until last year, when Zoe and Rollo brought the restaurant back into the fold, undertaking a complete relaunch that has only been revealed today.

Up to now, the siblings had focused on the flourishing cellar door, which offers relaxed sit-down tastings of acclaimed estate wines, and the stylish Crittenden Lakeside Villas, run by Rollo’s wife, Linda, who has a background in property and design.

“I think the missing piece of that puzzle was really the restaurant,” Rollo says.

The deck at Crittenden Restaurant on the Mornington Peninsula
The new Deck at Crittenden Restaurant.
Credit: Supplied

“For those who have been here before, you absolutely wouldn’t recognise it,” he adds. “It’s a ground-up renovation and a complete remake and rethink on the space… It’s very much in keeping with the style of food and, of course, the wine that we want to present to visitors.”

The design, as envisioned by Linda, makes full use of lake and vineyard views across a serene dining room, covered verandah and open-air terrace. The menu by new chef and Brazilian expat Brunno Melo, most recently head chef of Sorrento fine diner Audrey’s, tilts for the ideal balance between feeling cohesive and offering something for everyone.

The swordfish at Crittenden Restaurant
The Half barrel swordfish steak with burnt lime and chimichurri.
Credit: Supplied

The Josper Grill offers a common through-line, deployed on signature dishes such as a plate-sized swordfish steak, with lashings of smoked maple chimichurri; and a half roast chicken with harissa and chargrilled corn. Mornington Peninsula produce stars, including much sourced from good neighbours and friends Torello Farm.

“They’re so good and so humble and passionate about their cause,” Rollo says. “And I think that really ties in with our viticultural processes here, where we’re very focused on sustainable viticulture, not using chemical inputs and really improving the quality of the wines and the local environment through thoughtful farming practices. It’s imperative these days.”

Crittenden Wines
Inside the winery at Crittenden.
Credit: Supplied

Himself now an award-winning winemaker, Rollo has worked closely with Melo to ensure the menu enhances his wines. As well as pinot noir and chardonnay – Mornington’s trademark varieties – Rollo has cultivated an impressive diversity, experimenting with Spanish (the Los Hermanos line) and Italian (the Pinocchio range) varietals.

It means guests can sit down for a four-course feast, pairing the Cri de Coeur Pinot Noir and Josper-seared pork tomahawk; graze on spicy, quick-fried squid or chilled scallops on the deck with an aromatic Garnacha Blanca; or split a quick charcuterie platter and flatbread over a bottle of sangiovese under the umbrellas on the terrace.

Rollo, Linda and Zoe Crittenden at their vineyard in the Mornington Peninsula
The Crittenden clan including Zoe (centre), Linda (third from right) and Rollo (far right).
Credit: Supplied

Rollo and Zoe are excited to have that final piece of the puzzle clicked back in place, and see their family business grow new shoots. “For us, that family essence is at the heart of everything that we do,” Rollo says. “We’ve got an amazing team here, and it’s really nice to have new people joining us… It’s just going to be an incredible summer.”

Find Crittenden Cellar Door, Restaurant and Lakeside Villas at 25 Harrisons Rd, Dromana; crittendenwines.com.au

Related story: The 38 best places to eat, drink and stay on the Mornington Peninsula

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