WHAT’S HOT: New oyster bars are spawning across the country. There are dozens of them. Some ramshackle clam shacks, with sea shanty and shipwreck vibes. Others slick, with gleaming marble surfaces and silver platters stacked with shells. This is where oyster aficionados and mermmeliers come to get their (Sydney) rocks off. 

Like a fine wine, oysters are usually listed by variety and region, venturing beyond the Pacific to include the salty, minerally native Angasi to wild, organic Sydney Rocks. Beyond the usual lemon, there may be champagne vinaigrette or sauteed French shallots. Sparkling wine was once the standard pairing but these days you’re just as likely to find mini martinis, a Bloody Mary or a cool, crisp Chablis.

HOT TIP: Here’s a pearl of wisdom. Almost every oyster bar will do a happy hour – usually around 5pm – where you get your half-shells for half the price. 

THE HOOK, NSW
This new oyster saloon in Sydney serves briny bivalves, every which way. Try them splashed with Bloody Mary hot sauce, or grilled beneath a golden breadcrumb topping. They slide down even easier with an oyster shell gin martini. 1/17 Bayswater Rd, Potts Point; thehooksydney.com.au

THE WALRUS, VIC
The shellfish selection changes every day at this breezy oyster bar in St Kilda – check the mirror to see what’s fresh. It’s worth shelling out for the special mezze tower on Sundays, which includes a dozen oysters with crab choux pastries and lobster crumpets. 9 Inkerman St, St Kilda; thewalrusoysterbar.com

MULI EXPRESS, VIC
The Tran family has launched an express version of their famed Melbourne oyster bar, Muli. Take a seat at the counter, where you can knock back a dozen varieties in a single sitting. Cleanse the palate with a cooling oyster ice cream for dessert. 163 Little Bourke St, Melbourne; @muli_express

MIDTOWN BAR, QLD
This stunning NYC-inspired bar is the perfect spot for an upscale feast. The specialty is oyster shooters, which combine freshly shucked oysters with a Bloody Mark, G&T or Dirty Martini Shot. Meet other mollusc lovers at the weekly Oysters w/ Friends event. 15 Manning St, South Brisbane; midtownbar.com.au

Related story: How to order and eat oysters in public like a pro