Tequila has an image problem. For too long, the powerful spirit has been viewed as something that belongs solely in the domain of overly enthusiastic uni students on Austudy day, Mexican drug lords on the telly or hen party attendees.  But Tequila Bar by Mejico wants to showcase the drink’s complexities and prove there’s a lot more to the Mexican spirit. And there’s no hideous hangover required.

Located above Mejico restaurant in the CBD, the bar stocks one of Australia’s largest collections of tequila and mezcal. There are more than 250 varieties to explore, from the big names to small, artisan producers.

Aficionados will be in raptures over hard-to-find drops, such as the 7 Leguas d’Antano Extra Anejo Tequila, aged seven years, and the full range of El Jolgorio Mezcal, made from a rare species of agave.

Related story: Dine in a suspended gold orb at this glitzy new Melbourne restaurant 

Marcus Radny, the general manager of Hicks Hospitality, which runs Tequila Bar by Mejico, says tequila is having a moment: “Gone are the days of people thinking it’s a nasty drink for nasty hangovers,” he says. “It’s now a serious contender in bars.

“The trend is definitely bartender-driven, and people are naturally more curious. Like all spirits, the flavours develop as it ages. A reposado should have a bit more richness and length on the palate. As it gets older still, expect more cocoa and tobacco-like smokiness.”

“The better the tequila, the better the cocktail,” Radny continues. “You can taste the difference between a mass-produced tequila in a margarita. You almost pull a face when you drink it; it can taste sharp and harsh and rough around the edges. A margarita with a good tequila is fresh, vibrant and crystalline. You can taste a fresh herbaceousness.”

Once you get your tastebuds around tequila, then it’s time to try its cousin, mezcal. “Tequila is defined by a long list of strict rules in the growth of the agave plant and production,” Radny says. “Mezcal is the equivalent of the wild, wild west.

“It can be made anywhere, from a range of agave, and it’s typically roasted in pits with hot stones rather than steamed like tequila, so it’s a bit more savoury, spicy and smoky. People who are into tequila will find mezcal to be more complex. There are no rules to its production, so the possibilities are infinite.”

Radny wants Tequila Bar by Mejico to, “have a dive bar feel without being a dive bar”. It certainly looks better than a dive bar. The fit-out by One68 features black, pink and wood accents, with design features including sleek concrete flooring, circular patterned designs and oversized woven lampshades hanging from a slanted ceiling.

Expect the same easy-drinking food you’d find at Mejico, such as the signature tableside guacamole with chilli, coriander and plantain chips, plus beef brisket empanadas, jalapeno poppers and chicharrones. For dessert, there’ll be cinnamon churros with sticky caramel dulce de leche dipping sauce.

“We’ll have DJs on Friday, bar service, food until 3am and a good party vibe,” Radny says. “A big driver for us will also be masterclasses and tastings, from margarita masterclasses to tequila flights.”

Tequila Bar by Mejico
1 Pink Alley, Melbourne
Tue-Sat 12pm-late
mejico.com.au/melbourne

Related story: Exclusive: First look at Shane Delia’s sleek new Art Deco bar, Jayda