Across Australia, the pub is so often at the heart of country life. Often the oldest (and grandest) buildings in town, public houses once acted as everything from general stores to post offices, and worked their way into the fabric of communities. So whenever a beloved local changes hands, the stakes are high. 

Recently, a newly minted stream of publicans have been brave enough to take on the challenge. The pandemic-era flood of city dwellers into the country was no blip, with federal data proving that, since 2007, more people have moved out of our capital cities than into them.

The numbers trading city lights for country skies has  led to a wave of investment  in regional hospitality. But before you picture ‘greige’ interiors, many new owners have embraced the charms  of the Aussie country pub. 

Credit: Kitti Gould

In NSW, popular examples include Matt Moran’s Rockley Pub, and Northern Rivers hit The Eltham. In Kiama, The Grand Hotel has just been overhauled by two hospo veterans with local roots, who’ve woven local produce such as  Robertson spuds and rock oysters into a classic pub menu. On the Sunshine Coast, organic growers Falls Farm have made the Mapleton Public House a dining destination worth a road trip. 

Old Bush Inn in Willunga, South Australia, had more than 185 years under its belt before Mark Kamleh, Nick Stock and Stefano Longhi took it over late last year. The team is not new to community hubs, having led the lauded relaunch of the Aldinga surf living saving club into the laid-back Silver Sands Beach Club. 

“Our approach is not to overhaul the place,” says Stock. “It’s 186 years old, so really the most important thing for us was to get to know the soul of the place and the people who frequent the pub. The front of house team are our biggest asset, they’re such a great little family and really that’s the most important thing to maintain.

Credit: The Eltham

Their edits to the ‘Top Pub’, as it’s known to locals, have been reverential. Wine writer Stock did his thing on the drinks list, incorporating local craft brewers and mighty SA wines, and Italian-born Longhi brought Euro touches like spaghetti with Spencer Gulf prawns and ‘nduja. But the Coopers Beer-battered fish and chips and West End on tap signal loud and clear that the inn’s soul has remained intact. 

The local response, Stocks says, was “overwhelming”: “We probably underestimated the amount of love out there for this pub, and that’s been such a great surprise.”

Credit: Richard Cornish

In Victoria, the elegant Dayesford Hotel at the heart of town has been sensitively restored by the team behind  local eatery Cliffy’s Emporium and now-closed Beppe, with Quay graduate Rob Kabboord running the bistro.

“It’s a delicate thing, restoring an old pub,” says co-owner Samantha Mackley. “We wanted to keep its soul intact while giving it new life. That’s always been the balance. 

“Many people walk in and don’t realise how much work went on… which is exactly what we were aiming for.”

 The menu is, “generous, comforting and familiar,” Mackley says . “Which is exactly what people want from a good country pub.”