Last August saw the demise of Scott Pickett’s esteemed Melbourne eatery. But rather than turn his back on the concept for good, the restaurateur has simply revamped, recently welcoming Estelle to the former site of his duo of eateries Estelle Bistro and Estelle by Scott Pickett (ESP).

While the bones of its predecessor may remain, the new Estelle is fairly changed in terms of its interiors. With two restaurants now combined into a single bar/restaurant space, the eatery is obviously larger than it has been. Now catering to 65 in the dining room alone, Estelle features an array of seating both window-side and round tables (for groups of four to six) for guests to choose from. Estelle Bistro regulars will be pleased to note that the seats neighbouring the kitchen have remained.

And now with a separate bar space designed by Alexandra Green, the drinking den is a haven of exposed brick, accessorised with banquet seating, emerald green marble and floor-to-ceiling wine racks.

Just as its interiors cater to a range of occasions, so too does the new menu. Assisting Pickett in the kitchen is head chef Valentin Barrere (formerly of ESP and Vue de Monde), who has helped to create food offerings that celebrate contemporary Australian dining. Dishes range from light bar snacks to hearty mains, running from sardines on toast, paired with rouille and bottarga, to Berkshire pork, mustard leaf and kohlrabi. There’s also what sounds to be a particularly tantalising dessert concoction of saturn peach, jasmine kombucha, and lychee.

The accompanying wine list is just as much a celebration of the sunburnt country. Sommelier and restaurant manager Fabien Moalic has created a list of near 200 drops, many of which are local. There are also a handful of cocktails to enjoy, with the Estelle Signatures section featuring an Estelle take on the sour (the aptly titled Spicy Smokey Sour).

Estelle is now open seven days a week for dinner, and from Friday to Sunday for lunch.

Estelle
243 High Street, Northcote, Melbourne
www.theestelle.com.au