There are two types of people in Sydney: those who have queued outside Hong Ha and those who haven’t… yet. This busy counter is where crispy pork belly dreams are made – explosive crackling with a meaty centre – but the classic pork roll with its array of cold cuts and the lemongrass-marinated chicken are both worthy fillings, too. The bread? Perfectly crusty. The chilli? Proceed with caution. You might need a nap afterwards, but hey, it will have been totally worth it. Lunchtime crowds don’t lie – this place is a pilgrimage site for anyone who’s serious about their bánh mi. 1151 Botany Rd, Mascot

The legend. The blueprint. The humble hero of Illawarra Road. Marrickville Pork Roll has been doling out absolute bangers since before hipsters knew what bánh mi was. The pork is juicy, the pickles are punchy and the baguette shatters in all the right ways. It’s affordable, cheerful and incredibly hard to beat. You’ll be able spot this little hole-in-the-wall store by the perpetual queue of tradies, locals and food nerds debating coriander ratios outside. Even our PM has been spotted there, waiting for his lunch. Hot tip: get two – you’ll want a second before you’ve finished the first. 236 Illawarra Rd, Marrickville

Tucked away in Bankstown’s vibrant Vietnamese precinct, Bay Ngo makes bánh mi that is a masterclass in balance. The bread rolls are light and just crisp enough to contain their very generous contents, while the fillings (especially the traditional cold cuts) are vibrant and fresh. There’s a sweetness to Bay Ngo’s pickled veg that pairs beautifully with the creamy smear of house-made pâté. They’re generous with herbs and chilli, too, so prepare for a little spice-induced enlightenment. Not big on pork? The fish ball bánh mi is an aquatic treat. This is a local gem that’s absolutely worth the trek. 49 Bankstown City Plaza, Bankstown | @banhmibayngo

Open 24/7, because cravings don’t clock off, Viet Hoa is a Cabra institution. Get to the front of the queue and you’ll walk away with two things: one of the city’s best pork rolls, and icing sugar on your shirt from a rogue custard bun that you just couldn’t resist. These rolls are textbook perfect: springy, crisp-edged baguettes filled with smoky pork, crunchy veg and just enough chilli to remind you you’re alive. Get the classic or try a meatball roll… either way, no matter what time you wake up dreaming about bánh mi, Viet Hoa will be open. 107 John St, Cabramatta

Hidden in a shoebox-sized store on Darlinghurst’s main drag, Kenny’s is part cult favourite, part lunchtime saviour. The menu brings together classics and inventive spins, offering up barbecue pork and chicken, along with slow-cooked lamb and soft-shell crab. But it’s the crispy pork belly roll that has people lining up every day. The crackling is violently crunchy in the best way. And the vibe? Casual, no ego, all flavour. Bonus points for the smiley service and the occasional surprise filling (duck has been known to make an appearance). Around these parts, Kenny might just be the king of bánh mi. 159 Oxford St, Darlinghurst | kennysporkrolls.com.au/

Don’t let the name fool you – these sandwiches are anything but simple. A North Shore secret, Simply Sandwiches dispatches bánh mi so packed you might want to take the rest of the day off work so you can tackle the whole thing. The pork is rich and tender, the pâté creamy and bold, and the rolls fresh and toasty. There’s even extra crackling on offer, if you ask for it. It’s a favourite among nearby workers for good reason: the service is quick, the portions are generous and the chilli hits like a polite slap. Simplicity never tasted so good. 65 Willoughby Rd, Crows Nest

You can tell that this bakery inside the Top Ryde City Shopping Centre is a hot ticket by the ropes set up to manage the perpetual queues they draw on the daily. Yes, these bánh mi are so good, they cause traffic jams. The crispy pork belly is legendary, with perfect layers of crunch and fat balanced by fresh, snappy veg and warm, flaky baguettes. The vibe? Old-school, local and a little bit nuts. To wit: do a silly dance for the staff between 11am and 3pm and, if they approve of your moves, you’ll score $5 off your order. LG2 Top Ryde City, Cnr Devlin St & Blaxland Rd, Ryde | toprydecity.com.au/store/top-ryde-bakers-house/

Even in a suburb that takes its baked goods as seriously as this one, King’s Bakery stands out. The roast pork roll is packed with caramelised and tender meat, the crackling is LOUD, and the baguette is a perfect mix of chew and crunch. There’s no skimping on pickled carrot or coriander either, and the chilli packs a happy punch. Traditionalists are well served here, but those with a sense of adventure can embrace their wild side with the pork ‘n’ dim sim roll – a light-hearted Aussie take on the bánh mi that might sound crazy, but really, really works. 273 Forest Rd, Hurstville | @kings_hotbread

If your great aunt had a motorbike and a soft spot for chilli, she’d probably run a place like this. Great Aunty Three slings bánh mi with attitude: chunky cuts of caramelised pork, shards of crackling and a baguette with a crust so robust you could take it into battle. There’s modern polish here (think soy-latte energy meets Hanoi street food), but the flavours stay rooted in tradition. Vegan? You’re in luck. Hungover? Even better. Grab a roll, park on a seat out front and embrace that Enmore energy with sauce on your chin. It’s all part of the charm. 115 Enmore Rd, Enmore | greatauntythree.com/

You can tell a bánh mi has come from 888 just by looking at it: that layer of thick, buttery pâté and a zingy homemade sauce coating everything with punchy, umami goodness. It’s no wonder this is one of the most popular lunch spots in the Shire. The bread’s got bite, the fillings are fresh and the vibe is relaxed. There are tables on the footpath for those wanting to eat their rolls on the spot, a selection of Vietnamese pastries to appease your sweet tooth, and you can even order ahead to prevent a queue-induced attack of the hangries. 143A Oak Rd, Kirrawee