You could be forgiven for thinking it was the pristine grape-growing conditions that drew Sam Coverdale (pictured far left) to the Mornington Peninsula in 2008, but it was another natural force that lured the winemaker to the region: the unspoiled surf beaches. “Surfing keeps me sane,” Sam admits. “I’ve worked in wine regions across Australia and Europe, and the Peninsula offers one of the most beautiful combinations of beach, hinterland, wine and food. I can finish work and be in the water within 20 minutes, and then it’s only an hour’s drive to Melbourne.” Together with his wife, Emma, the young-gun winemaker established Polperro on a 25-acre property in Red Hill. The sophisticated bistro and cellar door were styled by interiors heavyweights Hecker Guthrie, and the four cosseting villas bear the mark of Emma’s design nous. Each of the spaces sports rich accents of copper, creamy stone and chocolate-toned timbers. In the handsome cellar door, guests can sample Sam’s Even Keel range and premium Polperro wines, spanning elegant, textural chardonnay and savoury pinot noirs sourced from high-altitude Mornington sites. Next door, chef Andy Doughton (left) helms the Hamptons-esque restaurant, turning out platters of buttery blinis with salmon caviar and wasabi creme fraiche, or masterstock chicken fried to a golden crunch. “It’s very much regional but it’s still contemporary,” says Sam. “Andy has some lovely Asian influences, which I don’t think he even realises, it’s just so infused in his cooking style now.” Enhanced by estate wines, a meal here is a lingering affair. “Now that we have accommodation, it’s been a really nice synergy with people wandering across for a long lunch and then stumbling back to their villas,” says Sam. Beyond Polperro, the Peninsula’s rustic-chic restaurants, world-class wineries and artisan producers await, making it the ultimate weekend retreat.

Located in the heart of Red Hill, Polperro is within easy reach of relaxed cafes and award-winning winery restaurants. “For breakfast, I love going up the road to cellar and pantry (141 Shoreham Rd, Red Hill South), the local general store,” says Sam. “They do a great tradie’s burger with bacon and eggs on Turkish bread.” After recharging with smart café fare, such as the pulled pork sandwich with Asian slaw (right), pop to the deli to stock up on red hill cheese, main ridge olives, Lievito Sourdough loaves, charcuterie, and fresh fruit and veg.

For a grassroots farm-to-plate experience, pay a visit to Johnny Ripe (284 Main Creek Rd, Main Ridge), a farmgate stall, bakery and eatery. “They bake beautiful apple pies, savoury tarts, and one of the best pulled pork pasties you’ll ever try,” Sam says. “But they also have a fantastic cafe serving breakfast and lunch from Friday to Sunday, and set dinners on Saturday nights. There’s no dinner menu, you just turn up and eat what you’re given. They’re into regional sourcing and whatever’s in season. It’s exactly the kind of food I love.”

Another Red Hill favourite is Foxeys Hangout (795 White Hill Rd). “I love its chaotic, tapas-style dining,” Sam says. Arrive early to nab a table in the pared-back cellar door, where winemaker/chef Tony Lee and his kitchen team work wonders with a gas burner and a chargrill pan. The blackboard menu might sport seared salmon or barbecued quail. Behind the bar, Tony’s brother and co-winemaker Michael pours sleek pinot gris and supple pinot noir.

Warm and welcoming, The Long Table (159 Shoreham Rd, Red Hill South) promises cosy couches, communal tables and roaring log fires. Local apples, stone fruits, quince, rhubarb and beets pepper the staunchly seasonal menu, with plenty to please gluten-free diners. Try the semolina-dusted calamari with saffron mayo, or chermoula snapper with piperade.

In the laidback coastal town of Dromana, Dee’S Kitchen (19 Pier St) is popular for relaxed brunches. “If we want something substantial, we head to Dee’s, which has an Israeli, Middle Eastern-flare to it,” says Sam. Try the smoked trout chimiraki with beetroot, peas, pickles and herbs on buckwheat and chia toast (pictured). For family-friendly dining pop to Ciao Bella (2998 Frankston-Flinders Rd, Balnarring). “Ciao Bella is another great casual spot,” says Sam. “They do lovely pizza and beautiful pastas, and they have a well-priced Italian wine list.” Red Hill Epicurean (165 Shoreham Rd, Red Hill) also dishes out crowd-pleasing pizzas in a rustic-chic shed.

The Peninsula’s cellar doors play host to a number of polished restaurants, such as two-hatted Ten Minutes By Tractor (below – 1333 Mornington-Flinders Rd, Main Ridge). “For fine dining done beautifully, it’s hard to go past Ten Minutes by Tractor,” says Sam. Chef Stuart Bell crafts precise plates of food, such as pan-seared hapuka with local mussels and romesco, or roasted pears with brioche croustillant, and creme fraiche ice cream. Work your way through the extensive wine list, showcasing Ten Minutes by Tractor vintages, other Mornington stars and heavy-hitting imports. Terre at Dromana Estate (555 Old Moorooduc Rd, Tuerong) also gets the thumbs-up for city-smart dining.

With more than 50 cellar doors in the region, it can be tricky to narrow down your hit list. Sam steers visitors towards little-known gems, such as Ocean Eight (271 Tucks Rd, Shoreham), where pinot gris, chardonnay and pinot noir are the stars. “I love the cellar door and the barrel room downstairs. That’s great fun.” Sam also tips Main Ridge Estate (80 William Rd, Red Hill) for its connection to the past. “It’s one of the cutest cellar doors, and they produce old-school chardonnay that’s done really well. Winemaker Nat White is such a gentleman and he still serves at the cellar door every day,” says Sam. A visit to Hurley Vineyard (101 Balnarring Rd, Balnarring) may take some planning, but it’s worth it, says Sam. “Kevin Bell does the tasting in the barrel room, usually straight out of the barrel, but it’s only open the first weekend of every month.” Time your visit correctly, and you’ll be rewarded with graceful, single-vineyard pinot noirs. Other names of note include Eldridge Estate (Arthurs Seat Rd, Arthurs Seat) and Yabby Lake (86-112 Tuerong Rd, Tuerong).

For wine tasting in a postcard-worthy setting, head to Port Phillip Estate (left – 263 Red Hill Rd, Red Hill South). “The view here is incredible and it’s an amazing build,” says Sam of the striking cellar door, home to Port Phillip Estate, Quartier and Kooyong wines. Max’s at Red Hill Estate (53 Shoreham Rd, Red Hill South) also gets Sam’s nod for knockout vistas over grapevines to the bay.

When the conditions are right, in-the-know locals make a beeline for Harry’s Mussels at the Flinders Pier. “When it hasn’t been raining and the mussels are fresh, Harry will take the boat out in the morning, and come back to sell the mussels straight off the boat. He’s a legend down there. He puts a chalkboard sign in the main street of Flinders, saying ‘Mussels from 11am ‘til 4pm’, and if the sign doesn’t go out it means he’s either too hungover or it’s been raining. All of the restaurants have to show up to get their mussels off the boat,” Sam reveals.

For coastal-chic homewares, Emma calls into Red Hill House (left – 169 Red Rill-Shoreham Rd, Red Hill South), packed with ceramics, cutlery, handmade toys, jewellery and linen. Coastal Living (204 Boneo Rd, Rosebud) is another favourite for neutral-toned fabrics and earthy kitchenware in timber, marble and stone.

For surf-mad Sam, one of his top shops (in two locations) is Trigger Bro (pictured – 3-7 Ross Smith Ave West, Frankston; 65 Main St, Mornington) for a custom-made surfboard. “It’s an old-school surf shop and they’ll knock up a board for you in a corrugated shed out the back of the building,” says Sam. When it comes time to stock his home cellar, Sam calls into Fine Wine Merchant (Shop 9, 87 Mt Eliza Way, Mt Eliza), for handpicked imports and local legends.

When it’s a full house at Polperro, Sam and Emma suggest nearby boutique options, such as peaceful B and B Hart’s Farm (300 Tucks Rd, Shoreham). “On Paringa Road, four-bedroom house Orchard Keepers (above) is ideal for families,” says Sam. And with a pool, pizza oven, four bedrooms and two bathrooms, Red Hill Lavender Farm and Distillery (284 Main Creek Rd, Main Ridge), is a good choice if you’re travelling with a troupe.