Unless there is a strong, dedicated pastry chef at the helm, many sweet courses feel like simply necessary add-ons, uninspired and underwhelming.

Not my dessert at GOMA though.

At the light-filled restaurant inside Brisbane’s Gallery of Modern Art, the final course ($19) to my leisurely lunch was a triumph.

Conjuring images of a Japanese rock garden, a quenelle of the silkiest of honey ice creams sat atop pebbles of nitrogen-frozen mascarpone dotted with pearls of blackberry, finger lime and marigold petals, concealing spoonfuls of guava sorbet.

Not too sweet, well-balanced, fresh and cleansing, it was elegant, refined and sophisticated – much like the rest of the menu at this acclaimed venue.

At the pans is Doug Innes-Will (formerly of Qualia at Hamilton Island and Spicers Peak Lodge, Maryvale) who took over from Ryan Ward and previously revered chef Josue Lopez, who has gone on to head up the food offering at the Emporium Hotel opening next month at South Bank.

While Lopez favoured produce from the Scenic Rim, Innes-Will’s time in north Queensland has influenced his menu with Cape York barramundi joining squid from the Gulf of Carpentaria and tropical fruit such as guava and custard apple.

Other Queensland produce is also on show. The entree of Hervey Bay scallops ($32) are blowtorched to deliver an almost chewy texture with sweet caramelisation on the outside, contrasted with pickled sheets of kohlrabi and a salsa of red grapes, Spanish onion and nashi pear; while a punchy yuzu gel ties everything together.

Mains are rich and speak of winter produce, such as the lamb neck ($41) cocooned in a layer of maltose giving a creme brulee-like toffee crust.

Snap through it and you’re presented with achingly tender meat – it’s rich fattiness countered by parsley and quinoa. Buttery Jerusalem artichoke puree acts almost like a sauce.