Restaurants

House of Papi is Marrickville's new Filipino bakery with Bega cheese doughnuts

A green facade at the entrance to a shop with the words House of Papi and a smiley face. A green sign with the words House hangs in front

Plus ube cruffins, Spam (and 'scam') musubi and longganisa sausage rolls. Words by Samantha Teague.

Sydneysiders mourned the loss of cult-favourite Donut Papi when it closed its Marrickville doors in July 2024 after nine years of slinging its famed Asian-inspired doughy rounds. But, fear not gluten gluttons, owners Kenneth and Karen Rodrigueza are just weeks away from opening a brand-spankin’-new twist on the bakery – in exactly the same Inner West site.

Donut Papi’s hot pink decor has been stripped away and replaced by brat-green walls, awning and custom-made illuminated sign by Domus Vim – all loudly proclaiming the upcoming arrival of House of Papi on Marrickville Road.

While Donut Papi was committed solely to the cause of doughnuts, House of Papi has a much larger offering, ticking off a wide range of Filipino baked goods and savoury snacks.

Under the guidance of head baker (and James Beard-nominated photographer) Luisa Brimble, the the kitchen is turning out sweet treats like ube and coconut dulce de leche cruffins, giant maruya (banana fritters), pandan-stuffed coconut bread and, yes, a limited range of doughnuts: pandan, strawberry milkshake and tsokolate (Filipino hot chocolate).

Related story: What is ube? The classic Filipino ingredient explained.

Box of baked goods on grass with House of Papi sticker.

While those sweets alone are incentive enough to run (not walk) to the new bakery, it’s the savoury (and savoury-ish) goods that the delicious. team found the most exciting when they visited the venue during its soft launch.

Two words: cheese doughnuts. Filled with Bega cheddar and coated with sugar. If you can resist devouring on your journey home, Kenneth suggests popping them in the microwave so the cheese inside melts. We’ve tried and (eagerly) tested and can confirm the wait is worth every hot, gooey, salty, sweet mouthful.

There are also longganisa sausage rolls, pies filled with Filipino braised beef stew, empanadas and Spam. Spam? Yep, the canned ham is making an appearance in the form of famed Hawaiian street snack musubi: a block of rice topped with a hefty slice of caramelised Spam neatly wrapped together with nori.

Plate with block of rice and slab of Spam wrapped in nori

If you’re thinking that sounds like a strange mashing together of Japanese and American cuisine, you’d be correct. While the dish’s exact origin story is debated, it’s widely agreed to have been created after WWII where Spam was a regular staple provided to American soldiers. So why might you find it at a Filipino bakery? Approximately 22.8% of Hawaii’s population is Filipino.

Vegetarian? Vegan? House of Papi also offers vegan ‘scam’ musubi. As fun to say as they are to eat.

House of Papi is slated to open by the end of September at 139 Marrickville Rd, Marrickville. Keep an eye on @houseofpapi_sydney for the official opening date and additional soft launches.

Related story: 5 reasons you should fly to the Philippines

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