Like a lot of Sydney residents, North Bondi Fish is escaping the city for winter. While it searches for warmer waters, Kepos Street Kitchen is subletting the space.

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Award-winning chef Michael Rantissi is moving in, along with his take on modern Israeli food. North Bondi Kepos will open at the end of the month and run until it’s warm enough for yellowfin tuna tartare to come back onto the menu.

Rantissi is excited about the collaboration. “It’s the Kepos food that people know and love, but with a completely new setting and atmosphere,” he says.

“The menu is designed to be shared, as that’s the way I’ve always loved to eat and it’s something I feel the Australian culture really embraces also. We love to try a little bit of everything.”

Rantissi’s menu is split into sections: mezze, raw, from the grill, mains, sides and desserts.

Start with a warm hummus made tableside in a mortar and pestle then move on to grilled wagyu flank steak with hazelnuts, burghul and balsamic glaze or baby rainbow trout with muhammara and spring onion.

Kepos Street Kitchen’s famed knafeh will also make the journey out east, as will the chocolate mousse with halva and almonds.

This new incarnation of NBF is also an opportunity to experience those Bondi views early. It’ll be open from 8am on weekends. Order a warming shakshuka, the soft baked eggs in a tomato and capsicum sauce come with tahini and pita.

Like all good Bondi brunch spots, this has a boozy offering. It makes sense, as NBF prides itself on its cocktails.

The drinks will also have a Middle Eastern update. Instead of a margarita, it’s the Figorita, with fig puree, homemade grenadine and served from a large ceramic teapot. Forget the Jagerbomb and cure your hangover with the Bergabomb, made with a flaming shot of Arak dropped into a beer.

This isn’t just a new menu, it’s a whole reimagining of the space. The view may be all Bondi, but the interiors will transport diners to the bright meyhanes of the Middle East, with a colour scheme of muted reds, yellows and blues.

NBF owner Matt Moran is looking forward to the venue’s new lease on life. Last winter, NBF turned into a ramen restaurant but had to pivot to takeaway when lockdown hit shortly afterwards. This time, it’s a chance to see if his plans of winter takeovers will be a long-term strategy.

“Sydneysiders are looking for new experiences more so than ever these days,” Moran says. “Bondi locals love to eat out in the winter just as much as they do in the summer, although they’re craving something a little more comforting during the cooler months. I think the warming dishes like Michael’s coriander-crusted slow-roasted lamb shoulder, along with dishes that still showcase the best seafood NBF is known for, such as the grilled swordfish skewers, will do really well with the local community.”

North Bondi Kepos (opens June 30)
120 Ramsgate Ave, North Bondi
02 9130 2155
Wed-Fri noon-late, Sat-Sun 8am-11.30am & noon-late
northbondikepos.com.au