With a reputation for some of Australia’s best chicken, Morgan McGlone has turned his attention to dining on the finer side with a new restaurant in Melbourne CBD. The Belles Hot Chicken owner has teamed up with 100 Burgers Group and International Worldwide design team for an impressively swanky 240-seat big city bar, grill, and cafe on Collins Street.

Natural History is the suave new establishment is housed in a formed bank site from the 1940s, with an interior that harks back to its former life. Inspired by New York institution The Oyster Bar at Grand Central Station, the space is an impressive one. There’s a 15-metre-long diorama backdrop for starters, created and designed by Michael Delany, that has been inspired by similar displays in museums around the globe.

Artist Vanja Zaric was commissioned for more than 20 taxidermy specimens, which were purchased from local dealers who ethically sourced from around the globe. A dark colour scheme throughout accentuates the striking artwork, as well as the venue’s collection of vintage furniture and glass chandeliers. To add to its quirk is a porchetta bar crafted from hundreds of matchboxes sourced from around the world and set under glass.

The venue itself is rather multi-purpose, open from 7am till late. Drinks area available throughout (courtesy of the Porchetta Bar Cafe being licensed from open), with feasting and drinking on offer well into the dark hours.

As for the fare, it’s focused around southern-style bar and grill classic dishes, with a handful of vegan options thrown in for good measure. There’s beef tartare with smoked oyster, soy egg, beef tendon chips or the pork chop with roasted onions and beer mustard. Vegans will be able to tuck into the roasted cauliflower and grains, served with toasted and sprouted grains, green mustards among other dishes. Light bites are available alongside, including a daily sandwich offering, and a rather impressive dessert menu.

“My food focus at Natural History is that we want to pay homage to all the great steak houses of America; Keens, Hillstone, Peter Luger,” says McGlone. “The food will have influences from all over since we are from everywhere cooking in Australia. What Neil Perry achieved with Rockpool Bar & Grill is what I consider the benchmark for steak houses in Australia. We hope that people will enjoy what we are doing at Natural History as much.”

The accompanying wine list is largely natural, and focused on new wave Australian producers. “We like our food ‘farm to table,” explains sommelier Gavin Wraith, “there’s a reason for that; we know where it comes from, we know who produces it and we know they are passionate, dedicated people, producing the best product they can, always striving for better. We don’t look for jazzy labels, wax tops or organic certifications, we just list great wine from great people.”

Natural History opens Wednesday, March 14.