If you’re after thick, fragrant, Singapore-style laksa, look no further than Temasek in Parramatta. Since 1992, the family-run restaurant has never deviated from the recipes developed by one of the original founders, the late Susan Wong. Even after a change of address – a few doors up the road – this beloved Western Sydney institution has remained a reliable constant, dishing up hundreds of bowls of laksa Singapura to grateful customers every week. The zesty and spicy broth is made with coconut cream for a rich and moreish soup that clings to every strand of your choice of noodles – egg, rice, or both. 2/100 George St, Parramatta; temasekrestaurant.com

Up the escalators in a nondescript food court, Happy Chef certainly doesn’t do pomp – but it does do great noodle soups. There are 20-plus variations of its cult laksa on offer, from your basic chicken through to fish cake wontons, barbecue pork, spicy tripe and a rendang-like beef, all swimming in a subtly sweet, perfectly piquant broth. Whichever way you decide to go, your big bowl of goodness comes with a choice of thin egg flat egg or vermicelli rice stick noodles, to match your mood. Linens and table service might not be guaranteed here, but happiness sure is. Sussex Centre Food Court, 401 Sussex St, Haymarket; facebook.com/happychefsussex

Where the Woon family go, laksa devotees follow – for 38 years. There are no superfluous ingredients here: plump prawns or a tender chicken drumstick, a tangle of rice vermicelli noodles and bean sprouts, and cleaved bean curd sopping up a deeply spiced broth with a demonic-looking chilli sheen. And all for under twenty bucks, even if you opt for the king prawns. Add a dollop of the free-flowing jammy, aromatic sambal, and you, too, will follow the Woons anywhere. Luckily, with locations now in Ashfield, Town Hall and Circular Quay, you’ll never have to travel too far to find them. malaychinese.com.au

At the head of a brood of Malaysian eateries both here and in Melbourne, chef Junda Khoo does his nation’s iconic noodle soup proud. There’s textbook creamy laksa lemak base, ideal egg-to-vermicelli noodle ratio and quality ingredients such as jumbo prawns and silky-soft, tender Hainan chicken. At the Town Hall outpost, Khoo’s signature ‘laksa bombs’ – a marriage of wonton-wrapped chicken and prawn dumplings with a rich curry laksa sauce – have become something of a cult menu favourite. It’s not the same experience as slurping your way through a bowl, it’s true, but it’s a deliciously fun take on the oeuvre nonetheless. hojiak.com.au

You won’t find a humbler or more retro Malay local than this family-run gem in an underground strip opposite Epping station, where the smoky, porky char kway teow might almost lure you away from your laksa mission. But stay strong: take a seat alongside the locals, and be rewarded with a brimming bowl of chicken curry laksa with satisfyingly fat egg noodles for under $20. If you’re heading there on a weekend, check their Facebook page to see what the specials are, and maybe make a booking, just to be safe. Despite its unglamorous location, this place can draw a crowd. 32/74-76 Rawson Street, Epping

Almost as famous for its intimidating 37-page menu as it is for the many culinary delights listed on it, this local institution has been slinging sambals and soups since 1987. On weekends, you can get a Sarawak-style bowl of soup zinging with sambal belachan, tamarind and lemongrass; but go any time for the huge servings and indulgent, authentic flavours. The eponymous Albee made her start in the hectic hawker stalls of Kuala Lumpur, so you can be assured that she knows her stuff. Pro tip: the crispy fried wonton laksa is a show-stopper, and is generous enough to share. 273 Beamish St, Campsie; 470 Anzac Parade, Kingsford

Along the inner city’s uni strip, between UTS and USyd, dozens of shopfront eateries jostle for those sparse student dollars. Venture off Broadway and into an apartment block’s wide courtyard, and you’ll find this always-packed restaurant, where the laksa is billed as ‘rapture in a bowl’. On our last visit, it felt curiously quiet for such a busy spot; once our soup arrived, we realised it’s because one must simply shut up and keep slurping. Both curry and assam laksa varieties feature on the menu, which also offers a BYO crab option: bring your own mud crab, and they’ll cook it for you. 5/66 Mountain St, Ultimo; malaccastraitsbroadway.com.au

This no-frills, under-the-radar joint has long been beloved by Parra locals for its authentic Indonesian dishes, but don’t skip the laksa when you visit. Fans hail it as filling, fresh and incredibly good value – the fans who aren’t gatekeeping their favourite spot, that is. We don’t blame the others. More recently, Kampung also opened an outpost in Broadway, where the generous serves and affordable prices will no doubt soon make it a regular haunt for hungry students everywhere. The seafood laksa is the best-seller, but the chicken and beef also go down a treat. As does an iced calamansi or cendol afterwards. instagram.com/kampunglaksaning

Hidden away in the unassuming, unflatteringly lit food court of Castle Mall, the son of two hawker-stall owners runs the north-west’s most authentic Malaysian street-food stop. The signature dish is the char kway teow, but fans of monochromatic meals will also delight in the crispy chicken laksa with a golden slab of fried chook served alongside a luminous bowl of tofu, noodles, sprouts and fragrant, delightfully rich and slurpable broth. The menu is short and sharp, but sometimes less is more when you’re trying to decide what to have for lunch. As one Tripadvisor review so aptly puts it, “Worth going, no frills, just good food”. Shop 107/16 Terminus St, Castle Hill

Despite the name, Laksa King does serve other dishes besides its trademark noodle soup. But when the main event is this strong, you should be forgiven for skipping the previews. Ruining business shirts for more than a decade now, this thrumming lunch spot is packed during weekdays with devoted fans of its exceptional broth, apparently made with 15 secret herbs and spices, which means the Colonel better watch his back. There are more than 10 laksa options to choose from; our tip is to order it ‘hot’ for a tongue-tinglingly thrilling build-up that will carry you through the afternoon. 37-39 Erskine St, Sydney; laksakingsydney.com.au