This is precise, pure sushi served by a master in a serene, opulent setting. As is the case with many top omakase offerings, there is exclusivity to dining here, created by both the number of available seats and cost. At Sokyo’s intimate omakase counter, just six diners settle in for up to 23 dishes. The luxe line up includes A5 wagyu, lobster sashimi, snow crab, otoro tuna and 12-hour steamed abalone. This is an example of what omakase is really about – not wealth and opulence but the suspense, joy, and transcendence that can happen when you put your trust into a visionary chef. The exclusive degustation menu is personally prepared by either executive chef Chase Kojima or head chef Daniel Kwak. The Darling, Level G, 80 Pyrmont St, Pyrmont; sokyodining.com.au.

HACO in Japanese means “theatre”; an apt name for the omakase offering by Sydney’s top-notch izakaya-style destination, Chaco Bar. Keita Abe of Chaco Bar and Chaco Ramen opened this temple to tempura in the backstreets of the CBD. It’s a concrete cube with black noren curtains draped at the entry, and inside is one of Sydney’s most exclusive and hard-to-get-a-seat experiences. The 20-course tempura omakase begins with Fremantle octopus balls enveloped in a crisp casing of nori batter, followed by a single scarlet prawn tempura seasoned with a herbal matcha salt. Reservations are released on the first day of every month, and it books out quickly. 102/21 Alberta St, Sydney; hacosydney.com.au.

This tiny 14-seater is squeezed into the first floor of a laneway tower, above a hard-to-spot red neon sign and a wild, kabuki-inspired foyer mural by street artist Lisa King. Besuto is the latest adventure for chef and restaurateur Joel Best, previously of Bondi’s Best – the famous North Bondi fish and chipper that closed in 2019. Drinks poured from a great sake list and fat, deep-shelled Pacific oysters are passed over the counter with an umeboshi granita. Small mounds of perfectly cooked rice come draped with Mount Cook alpine salmon, New Caledonian prawns, bonito, sea eel (anago) and, as an extra luxury hit, N25 caviar. This is relatively unfussy omakase, it’s sophisticated without feeling overly exclusive – omakase with a hint of Aussie casual, striking a quite perfect local experience. 6 Loftus Ln, Sydney; besutosydney.com.au.

There’s a lot of luxury to get through at Chef Harunobu (Haru) Inukai’s 10-course omakase in Darlinghurst. Diners are wrangling for a spot at one of the exclusive and much lauded sittings for this no-menu experience at the hands of a culinary master. This is a fine-dining experience with all the top-shelf produce to fit. There’s truffle, foie gras, toro (tuna belly), abalone, caviar, lobster and wagyu in swift procession along the menu. With bated breath we hope for the much-praised truffle-topped spanner crab chawanmushi, or the crisp, caviar-laden sea treasure ball. 2/132 Darlinghurst Rd, Darlinghurst; gakurobatagrill.com.au.

This omakase-style diner sits up an ordinary Chatwood alley, but a gem lies within its fluorescent light studded interior. This is ramen, but it arrives only after a series of stunning omakase bites. Chase Kojima, Sokyo’s lauded executive chef, and head chef Teppei Yura deliver a single menu of seven beautifully presented courses, ending with ramen of choice before dessert. The food is fast; this place has Tokyo business district vibes. Sashimi kicks off with a thin transparent curl of snapper enhanced with white soy and flecks of nori and sesame seeds, silken tuna and fatty salmon. Yuzu Shio ramen is a delightful order. The chintan chicken broth is filled with chopped leeks and bamboo shoots and thin slices of chashu chicken, a sunny half ramen egg on top. This is unfussy but elegant dining, and food arrives via a waiter to the table rather than directly from the chef to you. G05/88 Archer St, Chatswood; senpairamen.com.au.

This 10-seat omakase counter helmed by master sushi chef Ryuichi Yoshii sits within the Crown in Barangaroo. Signature Nobu dishes are seasonal and ever-changing, the constant being they’re intricately plated, stunning displays of how pretty food can be at the hand of a master. Dishes might span ornate flowers of sashimi, squares of tuna belly, then Nobu Tacos – two-bite starters with fillings such as salmon with spicy miso and lobster with wasabi sour cream – plus the world-famous black cod miso. The view, even from level two, is a sight to be seen. If only you can take your eyes off the work of the chef in front of you. Chef Ryuichi Yoshii’s omakase is $350 including sake and wine. Crown Sydney, Level 2/1 Barangaroo Ave, Barangaroo; crownsydney.com.au.