Redzepi says in his opening line “our story with fermentation is a story of accidents.” Anyone who’s tended a bubbling, burping crock-pot knows the sentiment. Redzepi and David Zilber, document the ferments intrinsic to Noma’s menus. It’s a book to empower the home cook as much as those chefs on Instagram losing their proverbial over it. Expect rose and shrimp garum on menus in 2019. Warning: A book that could trigger a life long obsession.
Our pick of the best cookbooks to gift the foodie this Christmas
For those of us who have twin obsessions, food, and books about food, Christmas is the time of year when we get to stack our shelves further with new reads and share our love for the printed word, delectable food photography and the kitchen experiments that flow on. From tomes hewn from decades of knowledge and practice to inspirational reads and the pleasingly practical, here’s a little inspiration for your Christmas book buying. Words by Max Brearley.
Milkwood, Kirsten Bradley & Nick Ritar, Murdoch Books, $45
Sharing insight into everyday permaculture, Bradley and Ritar demystify a meaty subject, taking on five areas: beekeeping, harvesting seaweed, tomatoes, mushrooms and wild food. A better approach than an exhaustive but surface view of such a wide landscape. Recipes, projects and how-to guides make this immensely practical. You don’t need an acreage to appreciate this book, just a curiosity about down-to-earth living.
SIMPLE, Yotam Ottolenghi, Ebury Press, $49.99
No, our caps lock button isn’t stuck. Ottolenghi has employed a SIMPLE mnemonic for his latest book. S: Short on time; I: 10 ingredients or less; M: Make ahead; P: Pantry; L: Lazy; E: Easier than you think. The criticism of Ottolenghi – yes, people dare to practise such heresy – is that he can be too liberal with specialty ingredients and employ too many steps. I’ve never prescribed to this view, but for those who do, this is the book for you. Gateway Ottolenghi if you will. I’ve already gifted this to family and the feedback chimes with the theory for the book, in that busy parents can make ahead, while the kids are napping, using a small ingredient list. Another global hit for the London-based chef.
Meat, The Ultimate Companion, Anthony Puharich & Libby Travers, Murdoch Books, $79.99
At this book’s heart is the essential truth of meat: that a beast has died to provide food. It talks candidly on this, with input from farmers, butchers and cooks. It breaks down the carcasses on the page, with illustrations and photography of cuts and where they’re found. There’s not a recipe I wouldn’t cook. An important book, Travers and Puharich have created a possible future classic; reinforcing my thought of less meat, better quality. My book of the year.
Simplicious Flow, Sarah Wilson, Pan Macmillan Australia, $45
The design screams modernity, the content takes me back to the lessons of my frugal nan. In Sarah Wilson’s continuing pivot from I Quit Sugar, Simplicious Flow is on a no-waste tip. This isn’t about the one-off cook, more a way to flow, with ingredients and prior preparation, working seasonally and multi-tasking. It’s about saving time, money, energy and resources. I mean, who can’t get down with that? Oh, and it’s delicious.
Copenhagen Food, Trine Hahnemann, Quadrille, $39.99
City cookbooks are on the rise. Note to publishers: more like Copenhagen Food, please. Trine Hahnemann, a Copenhagener, takes readers on a journey through the city known for the likes of Noma, Relæ and Sanchez, but gives much more. A locals’ guide as well as a cookbook. Food is on the comfort spectrum, from Danish breads and baked goods to frikadeller (meatballs) and seared cod roe. It’s modern in its interpretation of classic dishes; a useable book that will inspire travel, or the dream of it.
From the Earth, Peter Gilmore, Hardie Grant Books, $80
While the news this year on Peter Gilmore has been the triumphant reboot of Quay, From the Earth deserves a bit of fanfare. It’s the story of Gilmore’s love of the garden, of seed, and growing heirloom vegies. But Gilmore also throws the spotlight on growers like Palisa Anderson of Boon Café and Boon Luck Farm, and the real stars, like Tropean Red Onion, Crystal Apple Cucumber and Umbrian Wild Pea. They may be new to you, perhaps opening the mind to the diversity we often shun. Dishes are, as you’d expect, breathtaking. Whether or not you give them a go is one thing, but a dive into Gilmore’s world may be enough.
Suqar, Greg & Lucy Malouf, Hardie Grant Books, $55
Turning their gaze to the sweeter side of Middle Eastern cuisine, the Maloufs have created a go-to resource for the sweet-toothed out there. Throughout chapters on fruit, dairy, cookies, cakes and pastries, preserves and confectionary, there’s the familiar comfort of Middle Eastern staples, from syrups and tahini, to honey, saffron and dried fruit. Recipes aren’t laborious; there’s plenty for the busy to whip up. Making your sugar hit count seems to be its raison d’être.
Time, Gill Meller, Quadrille, $39.99
The great cookbooks are those that sit on the nightstand as well as the kitchen bench. Meller writes with literary style, stirring up ideas beyond food. A follow up to Gather, Time flows through the chef’s year, pinpointing in its pages, morning, day and night. There’s a rustic elegance to Meller’s work, evoking life in England’s southwest, but still relevant to far-flung readers. Given life by Andrew Montgomery’s photography, you could stare for hours at kedgeree, a horseradish-infused Bloody Mary, cold smoked trout, fresh crab on toast, or game terrine and slow-roasted goat. Don’t stare, cook.
Eat at the Bar, Matt McConnell & Jo Gamvros, Hardie Grant Books, $50
Eat At The Bar evokes books like Sam & Sam Clarks’ Moro and Morito; books that I come back to year after year. A journey through McConnell and Gamvros’ travels in Portugal, Italy, Spain and elsewhere, it’s also as much about their loved and lauded Melbourne eatery, Bar Lourinha. This book stirs the appetite for food and real travel, from stuffed calamari or sardine bocadillos to a bowl of clams, fino and ancho chilli.
The Cook's Apprentice: Tips, Techniques and Recipes for New Foodies, Stephanie Alexander, Lantern, $45
Everyone has to start somewhere, and where better than with Stephanie Alexander. The Cook’s Companion was just that for a generation of Australians, and with that thought in mind Alexander has come up with The Cook’s Apprentice. It’s a little basic for some, but for the younger foodie, or indeed someone in later life who’s never had to cook, it’s a solid introduction to what Alexander says are the hows and whys of cooking. Easy to follow, well designed; it’ll be a great springboard for many home cooks.
How To Eat, Nigella Lawson, Chatto & Windus, $49.99
Nigella Lawson and Nigel Slater are two writers I return to, their mercurial knack of expressing the joy and comfort of food the constant draw. Slater said of Lawson’s book: “If I could keep only one cookbook, this would be it. How To Eat suits the way I cook. It is as if Nigella is sitting on a stool next to me in the kitchen as I’m cooking.” How To Eat, is 20 this year; reissued in paperback and 20 hours of audio, it’s as striking and weighty as it was back in 1998. No bookshelf is complete without it.
Special Guest, Annabel Crabb & Wendy Sharpe, Murdoch Books, $39.99
The pressure of entertaining, especially in holidays seasons, is enough to trigger mild or not-so-mild terror in even competent cooks. It’s all about expectation and, for some of us, the need for perfection. Annabel Crabb ’fesses up to “happily imperfect hosting”, and with oldest friend Wendy Sharpe they furnish tips and recipes for maximum-effect, minimum-effort recipes. Sounds like cheating? Nah, just common sense.
Baladi, Joudie Kalla, Jacqui Small, $49.99
Our want for Middle Eastern cooking seems to be far from abating. Baladi by London-based Kalla, is a follow-up to Palestine on a Plate. It once again delves into Palestinian flavours, and food culture, from qallayet bandora, a dish traditionally eaten by olive farmers in harvest, to khobez, a staple bread of many a Palestinian meal.
Fervor, Paul Iskov, Margaret River Press, $39
Some of my most memorable dining experiences have been courtesy of Iskov and his band of nomadic chefs. Fervor, his roaming restaurant, moves from north to south in Western Australia, sometimes straying out of the state. They set up on stations, in national parks and at food festivals. Key to Iskov’s success is that he spends meaningful time on country to widen his knowledge of Indigenous ingredients and culture. He’s the real deal. The book, published with regional publisher Margaret River Press, doesn’t have the budget or resources of some of the titles in this rundown, but Fervor is well worth a look, whether you’re a chef, a keen home cook, in the west, or elsewhere.