This is the time of the year to make like a wombat. No, not by hibernating, but by eating roots and leaves. Winter is the time of year when roots and tubers are at their finest, and we’re now in the season for everything from parsnips and potatoes to celeriac and Jerusalem artichokes. These are all ably supported by leafy greens such as spinach, silverbeet and gai lan (aka Chinese broccoli).

As this week marks Independence Day in the US, let’s take this moment to break away from our old ways with winter veg, and instead do something other than simply smashing everything into a stew or braise – delicious though that may be.

POTATOES

I love them mashed, baked or roasted, but instead consider slicing potatoes thinly and layering them in an oven dish with equally slender slices of parsnips or celeriac and onions. Douse them with cream and milk, and bake this gratin at 150°C for an hour, or until a skewer pierces the layers easily. 

Making any change to the usual crunchy, golden roasties may cause a rebellion in your home, but reassure the revolting masses that much of Australia has gone mad for hasselbacking their spuds. This involves slicing them almost through, then baking them into toasty, bronzed petals of roasted potato. Hot tip: place spuds between two chopsticks to stop you slicing through.

Take hasselbacking to the next level by placing thick slices of peeled potato between chopsticks and slicing more than half-way through with vertical cuts. Then flip it over and do the same at a 45-degree angle. Do this right and you’ll end up with slices that open up like a concertina or potato paper-train. These can then be fried or oiled and roasted. Don’t worry if it takes a couple of tries to get this cutting technique perfect. 

CAULIFLOWER

Cauliflower’s emancipation from the dark days when it was only ever boiled has almost been total. We’ve discovered that it’s even better fried, roasted, mashed or even—I’ll begrudgingly admit—turned into cauliflower rice. There’s probably no need for independence here, as that’s quite enough already, though I do encourage you to try roasting a whole cauliflower, if you haven’t done so already. Yes, I know I bang on about this but, honestly, it’s life-changing. The best way is to trim the head and microwave it for 8-15 minutes (depending on its size) or until slightly softened, and then finish it off in a hot oven (200°C) for 15 minutes. Before roasting, carefully rub it with butter and then pile on the grated cheese and a little nutmeg; or, alternatively, rub it with coconut oil, then curry powder, mixed in a little coconut yoghurt.

JERUSALEM ARTICHOKES

In my house, Jerusalem artichokes are usually turned into a wonderful creamy soup. However, they’re naturally sweet and this is intensified when they’re roasted, so instead, give them a wash, toss them in olive oil and bake at 180°C until they’re soft, and a little crinkly on the surface. 

You can then halve them and toss in a vinaigrette-dressed cos lettuce salad with bacon, or scoop out the white flesh to make a sauce for roast chicken (thicken and lengthen this sauce with breadcrumbs soaked in warm milk, and don’t forget to season), and return the skins to fully crisp up in the oven, then serve on top for added crunch.

FENNEL

The creature-of-habit in me sees fennel sliced in a salad with this season’s black olives and orange segments, or baked/fried until the edges tan up and the flesh goes all creamy. However, to take fennel in a different direction, slice and stir-fry it with garlic, ginger, batons of new-season celery and gai lan (Chinese broccoli). Flavour with a little five spice and a splash of soy and hoisin sauce. 

Any orphan greens left in the crisper – those last few sugar snap peas or brussels sprouts or the butt-end of a lettuce – can be sliced and added, too. If you want to add meat to this dish, some barbecued pork loin marinated in char siu sauce and a little mandarin juice would be perfect. 

PUMPKIN

I’m loath to do anything other than roast pumpkin – whether for soup, to serve with a roast, or as wedges in a winter salad with grilled broccolini and spinach. Add quinoa or brown rice for bulk, along with some sliced, grilled chicken thighs. 

Remember, however, that roasted pumpkin can also be mashed to dry it out a bit and then mixed with a little flour to make gnocchi, or with a lot more flour to make a simple hand-rolled pasta. Both are great served with a salty, savoury ragu or tossed with butter and silverbeet leaves, fried in butter and garlic, and then dotted with blue cheese. Remember to cook those sweeter pastas made with pumpkin, sweet potato, roast carrot or beetroot in plenty of well-salted water.

BEETROOT

My usual go-to approach for beetroot is to pickle it, or wrap them whole in foil and cook until soft by placing them in the bottom of the oven, when I bake or do a roast. The latter method makes them a cinch to peel, and I like to slice them thinly and serve like a vego carpaccio sprinkled with pomegranate, orange zest and dollops of goat’s curd – it’s jolly nice with seared kangaroo fillet marinated in sumac, yoghurt and grated brown onion.

As your love affair with winter vegetables blossoms, and your independence grows, you’ll find there’s plenty of fresh inspiration online to keep that fire burning: from Matt Moran’s beetroot chutney to serve with crumbed lamb cutlets or Maggie Beer’s smoked eel and beetroot jelly bruschetta, to Warren Mendes’ gourmet pizza with beetroot, feta and mozzarella on a crispy filo (or you can use puff) pastry base, with a topping of mint, parsley and toasted pine nuts.