“Cusp” is a lovely word. It defines that point of transition, a turning point – and a cusp is about where we are right now with seasonal fruit and veg. Citrus such as grapefruit, blood oranges and tangelos are still going strong; and while winter veg like cabbages, carrots and cauliflower are still in season, celeriac, beetroot and brussels sprouts are waning. 

That’s not a bad thing, as this means avocados and asparagus are on their way to peak form now – and that means spring is coiled to be sprung this week. To mark the occasion, here is a list of produce worth celebrating this season.

LETTUCE & PEAS
Let’s begin by introducing the harbingers of summer. With the arrival of in-season lettuce and fresh peas, it’s time to pack away winter’s woollen tights and clean the ashes out of the fireplace now that we won’t be using them for a while.

It’s true that there’s only so much we can do with lettuce or peas on their own, but what if we use them together? And not just in a classic French-style soup, but for something a little more exciting. Jamie Oliver makes a lovely baked spring chicken with braised lettuce and peas.

The gist of it is that you brown chicken thighs (bone in, skin on), deglaze the pan with sherry and then add some stock. Simmer away for 30 minutes and then throw in peas and lettuce wedges. Leave these to simmer for 10 minutes before adding a squeeze of lemon juice and serving with mash, rice or boiled spuds.

If chook isn’t for you, try braising the peas in stock with shredded lettuce and finish with small white pickled onions and a spoon of cream. This would make a great side dish for chops, or you could bulk it up to a light meal with the addition of some grated parmesan and crusty garlic bread.

THE FAMILY BROCCOLI
Everything from broccoli and broccolini to broccoflower (a cross between broccoli and cauliflower) and gai lan – aka Chinese broccoli – is in season, which means it should be well priced instore.

We’ve got a whole gallery of brocco-friendly recipes, but may I recommend Hayden Quinn’s roast miso mushrooms with gai lan dressed with kecap manis and sesame oil. (And if you’re looking for more brocco-led vegetarian ideas then try Sam Parish’s no-meat broccolini balls.) Broccoli pestos are everywhere, too – served on toast for breakfast, or on pasta or with grilled fish for dinner – but perhaps more interesting in our gallery of brocco recipes is the pairing of broccoli, silken tofu and green beans in a Thai-style broccoli green curry.

LEEKS
I’m having a bit of a moment with leeks – even though they have stayed quite pricey despite being in season.

I’ve talked about my love for a savoury leek tarte tatin dressed with goat’s cheese, or for using the braised green part of the leek to flavour a risotto, and the whites to garnish, but leeks also do a marvellous job as fat, soft barrels of sweetness in the lamb shank tray bake that’s currently on high rotation at my place. Speaking of which, braised lamb shanks with lentils and silverbeet might be the most uninspiring recipe name I’ve ever come up with, but don’t let it fool you – this will come in handy if the cold winter nights are slow to leave us.

CITRUS
I talked earlier about all of the citrus currently in season, but I’m a little stuck in the mud when it comes to using them. Grapefruit is best when split, sugared and brûléed under the grill for breakfast, or juiced and turned into a paloma cocktail with mezcal at night.

I’ve found no better way to use blood oranges than segmenting them for a fresh winter salad with radicchio and the last of the beetroot, adding dried black olives or goat’s cheese for saltiness. (Well, except for juicing the blood oranges to pour over a Campari and ice.)

I’m similarly stuck in my ways when it comes to dishes by delicious. recipe queen Emma Knowles. They always seem to deliver, and if I’m looking at tangelos, I can only see them gracing the top of her recipe for steamed orange pudding with ginger custard as a canny substitution.

I suppose I could also be persuaded to boil them (or any of the last mandarins or those blood oranges) to use in a version of Claudia Roden’s famous – and imitated – flourless orange cake.

Related story: Matt Preston’s favourite ways with winter fruit and vegetables