Along with Rick from The Young Ones, Monkey from Monkey Magic and Bill Oddie from The Goodies, one Arthur Fonzarelli (The Fonz!) from Happy Days was a major influence on my early childhood. Mini Huck would strut around, proclaiming “ayyyy!” every time he walked into a room.

In his leather jacket, white tee and Levis, The Fonz was the coolest, and although I’d try to mimic his swagger, in reality,

I was probably much more like Ralph Malph. Anyway, ever since, I’ve wanted a leather jacket… and, despite a wardrobe full of black, I’ve never achieved it.

Unless, of course, it was for dinner – something all-round fish fiend and owner of Fishtales John Susman recommends.

“I reckon the greatest opportunity with leatherjacket is with the skin… tanned, it would be perfect as a bikini, or for a pair of cowboy boots with chiselled toes and Cuban heels!” he laughs.

Indeed, if you buy the fish whole, be sure to remove the skin before cooking – it’s earned its name for good reason. In fact, the whole fish is pretty distinctive, with a small mouth, sharp fused teeth that look much like a beak, small gills and a serrated spine on top of its head that can deliver a painful sting.

But, says Susman, don’t let its tough exterior stop you experiencing its versatility and enjoyable eating qualities.

“The leatherjacket, like Mexican cuisine, has been the ‘next new thing’ in food for years,” he says, “but this ‘rabbit of the sea’ is truly a recession buster – plentiful, inexpensive, consistent, firm-grained and with a great shelf life.”

They diet on algae, crustaceans, molluscs, fish and even worms, and are currently in near-plague proportions on the east coast of Australia.

You’ll commonly find them skinned and headless, but still on the bone. “Easy to fillet, the flesh is mild flavoured and has an almost ‘chickenability’ in regards to how it can be cooked,” says Susman.

Superb in curries, the leatherjacket also excels when baked, grilled and even poached. Susman prefers them “cooked on the bone, where they remain soft and juicy, and absorb the rich flavour of the bone structure”.

Why don’t you try one on for size? Who knows, maybe you’ll enjoy some happy days, ayyyy!

Buying
Buy whole if possible, or on the cage (not filleted), head andgut removed.

Storing
If buying whole, immediately remove gut and gills. Wrap in muslin or freezer film and place in a plastic container with a layer of ice on the bottom and the fish resting on a drip tray. Seal lid andplace at the bottom of the fridge. Fillet just before cooking.

Cooking
Baked, pan-fried, curried, smoked, barbecued.

Catching method
Trawl, trap.

Substitutions
Mahi mahi, swordfish.

Accompaniments
Lemon, capers, potato, fennel, olives; loves Thai curry flavours.

See here for our pan-seared leatherjacket with sauteed zucchini.