I’ve never had a pet budgie. A friend had five and their cages were strewn with half-eaten cuttlebones. More shell than bone, they’re great to nibble on, apparently. Ask any budgie.

Now, I don’t know about you, but I think I’ll stick to the cuttlefish itself.

Cousins of squid, and closely related to octopus, cuttlefish are cephalopods, with a prominent head and tentacles (or legs) protruding from a primitive molluscan foot.

Cuttlefish, however, look different to their relatives, with reddish-brown skin and white markings, and eight small and two larger tentacles. They’re prolific producers of ink, too, which, according to John Susman of Fishtales, has a much nuttier taste than squid ink.

“Without the thin body and long legs of the squid, the cuttlefish, with its round body and small legs, has often been seen as inferior,” says Susman. “But it’s come into its own over the past decade – moving from bait to centre of plate.

“Cuttlefish is the preferred bait (over squid) for the savvy King George whiting fisherman. Clearly, the KGW is a fish of style and taste, appreciating the more complete mouthfeel – from the initial crisp bite to the creamy texture and slightly livelier flavour.”

Found throughout Southern Australia, cuttlefish are fast-breeding and fastgrowing, giving them stellar sustainability ratings. Commonly sold around 15-25cm, they behave similar to squid in the kitchen, but there are slight differences to consider.

“I prefer cuttlefish to squid for sashimi,” says Susman. To get the best, most tender outcome, he advises you double-skin the hoods of cuttlefish. “There is a second layer which is fine to eat, but if you gently peel it off, the raw-eating experience is magnified.“ (Ask your fishmonger to do this if you find it tricky.)

“Fresh, raw cuttlefish has a texture and taste superior to squid,” Susman continues. With a light eggwhite and green-melon aroma, a texture that’s tender, and a flavour that boasts mild milky notes and a fresh cream finish, they are stunning raw, but can hold their own in a deep-fried salt-and-pepper play, too.

When cooked, Susman loves them shaved thin and simply tossed through a hot wok with oil, butter, garlic, parsley and lemon juice. “It’s one of the best eating experiences you can have,” he says.

See here for a chargrilled garlic and chilli cuttlefish recipe.

Buying
Buy whole, with double skin still on, or get your fishmonger to skin it for you. Look for shimmering, wet flesh and a clean sea aroma.

Storing
Store whole for no more than 24 hours on a drip tray over ice in an airtight container. Once cleaned, use immediately, or wrap tight in freezer film and store in the vegetable crisper. Use within 24 hours.

Cooking
Raw, sauteed, steamed, poached, grilled, fried, braised.

Catching method
Prawn trawl

Substitutions
Squid

Accompaniments
Chilli, thyme, butter, parsley, garlic, basil.