Ask Mat Lindsay to define his aesthetic at the highly acclaimed Ester in Sydney and he shrugs good-naturedly. “Minimal,” he allows. Admittedly, the Chippendale eatery is sparingly decorated, and its menu reads as succinctly as haiku, but Lindsay’s food is anything but basic. In fact, it is sensual, alchemical and laudable – since launching in 2013, Ester has been showered with critical praise and industry plaudits.

The chef’s description belies the complexity of his dishes. Lindsay focuses on seasonal ingredients, adventurous pairings and imaginative twists, like a savoury version of a tarte Tatin crowned with sweet onions. Everything at Ester is touched by a wood-fired oven: oysters, crabs and a whole head of cauliflower that remains on the ever-changing menu. Even raw fish is graced with a smoky sauce that’s been prepared with fire.

Naturally, for someone who named his restaurant for an organic compound, Lindsay is more produce-driven than most. “I don’t say, ‘I want to do a lamb dish’, and then look for the meat.” Instead, when writing his menus, he works closely with ethical suppliers and eagerly visits farmers’ markets. He is also mindful of using every last ounce of an ingredient. “We make sure we’ve done everything we can,” he says. Prawn shells, for instance, are fermented and used to enliven butter. “It’s all about maximising flavours.”

Some believed Lindsay daft when he opened Ester on an unassuming street in Chippendale. Four years ago, the ungentrified neighbourhood was hardly the humming destination it’s become. Still, he’s never had a problem filling the tables. “It was wild from the beginning,” he says. Later this year, the chef will christen a second venture in a new boutique hotel in Surry Hills, this one powered by a wood charcoal hearth. “It will be izakaya-like in its approach,” he says. Expect small plates big on taste.