Farmers are often the first to notice change. Change in seasons, change in the stars, change in animal behaviour and, in recent decades, change in climate.

Regenerative farming practices are more crucial now than ever before, with world scientists stating that we’re beyond the tipping point if we want our planet to remain inhabitable. Centuries of extensive land clearing in Australia and around the world have resulted in the disruption of the delicate ecosystem that we all depend on. A particularly insidious effect of the removal of large amounts of native vegetation is a rising water table, bringing with it salt that renders once-fertile land hostile.

Moojepin Foods, based in Katanning, inland from Margaret River, has found an innovative solution to this salty situation. Founders Lance McLeod and David Thompson have seen first-hand the devastating effects of the rising water table across the Western Australian wheatbelt, and have made the ingenious decision to plant native vegetation that has naturally evolved to thrive in a high-salt environment. 

Native succulents and shrubs like karkalla, sea purslane, saltbush and the striking crystal ice plant have perfectly adapted to endure and flourish in areas of high salinity. As the plants grow, they drive the water table back down.

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Not only are these plants lowering the water level – and in turn, the salt that has been dormant under farmlands for millions of years; McLeod and Thompson’s business model has also provided much-needed employment and a significant boost to the economy of Katanning. It’s a tiny dot on the map doing big things for the community and the environment. 

Many of the farmers on McLeod and Thompson’s neighbouring properties had seen their land plummet in value due to the rising salt, with increasingly shrinking pockets of their farms usable for growing wheat. After seeing what the Moojepin team has been able to accomplish with plants indigenous to the area, they’ve joined the party, too. 

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Now, this co-op of salt-hardy farmers are making their mark on plates around the country, with their unique and appealing produce showing up on fine-dining menus across the country.

Aurora in Adelaide and Mimi’s and Tokyo Lamington in Sydney have all featured Moojepin’s brackish goods on their menus. Closer to home, Michelin-starred chef Tam Chudaree Debhakam jumped on board during her residency at The Dam in Denmark, WA. Evidently, these little native heroes are the seasoning for every season.

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