Ballarat, Victoria 

It’s the well-worn story of boom and bust – or at least faded fortune – in Ballarat, its architectural grandeur a clue to the gold-rush wealth that built the city just 115 kilometres from Melbourne. In recent years that grandeur has been the backdrop to the city’s revival.

While it has its share of good beer, coffee and the like – surely a necessity of travel for most Melbournians – it’s the dining scene that has caught the attention of those hungry for a taste of Ballarat. Mitchell Harris Wines is a starting point to get a handle on the best of central and western Victoria, with a good grazing menu to boot.

Underbar is perhaps the high-water mark for Ballarat’s food scene. The fine diner serves barely double figures per service, and there’s just two of those a week (Friday and Saturday). Chef-owner Derek Boath spent two years at Per Se in New York, and while Ballarat is a world away, his focus on quality local produce is maybe partly guided by his time under Thomas Keller.

Boath isn’t the only chef in the district with Michelin chops. Damien and Danielle Jones, of Mr Jones Dining, spent time in London, working with, among others, David Thompson at Nahm where he was head chef when it won a star.

Coral Coast, WA

The south-west of Western Australia is a magnet for food lovers – Margaret River being the big draw – but north of Perth there’s an emerging food scene as Australian as they come. Geraldton, a stopping point en route to the northwest and Broome, has its share of finds from Piper Lane Café to Quiet Life

Specialty Coffee, but the revelation is Barnacles on the Wharf, owned by the Geraldton Fishermen’s Co-op. The simple fare served to a legion of fluro clad workers includes crayfish tail and chips. While cray boats unload down the wharf, until recently the catch mostly went to export, very little reaching local eateries.

At Kalbarri, known for its red gorge hikes and stunning coastline, Finlay’s, a one-time fish-processing shed turned brewery and casual restaurant, spruiks the catch of the day, a bowl of Carnarvon cockles, and a house IPA. Carnarvon, the hub of the Gascoyne food bowl, is home to the Gascoyne Food Festival, in August, a month-long exploration of the region’s produce from the Indian Ocean to true- blue outback stations.

Launceston, Tasmania

Tasmania’s culinary pedigree is no secret, but the spotlight is usually shone on the south. It’s time to look again at Launceston. Luxurious suites have opened above acclaimed restaurant Stillwater in the former mill by the river. Seven makes the perfect base for a visit, exemplifying the city’s charms. After dinner slope off to bed, but not before enjoying the superb locally stocked mini-bar, and awake to one of the best breakfasts in the Aussie hotel landscape.

Just down the Tamar, Peppers Silo Hotel has turned industrial monoliths into a destination, not least for Massimo Mele’s Grain of the Silos. Mele mines his Italian heritage to deliver a memorable menu with top Tassie produce.

The state’s wine rep is on the rise and cellar door restaurants tend to follow. The kitchen at Josef Chromy Wines has seen the likes of Alain Passard and Alex Atala, with the late Great Chef Series. It’s a perfect spot for overlooking the vines at a big name in Tassie wine. Timbre Kitchen at Velo Wines draws visitors from the north and south of the island.

Northern Territory

The NT is often a footnote when it comes to rounding up the best of Australia, but locals will tell you to think again. With fifth-generation Chinese families, Vietnamese and Greek helping to make  up the rich mix there’s a real sense of culture in the dining scene.

In the capital, laksa is a weekend pursuit, with the Rapid Creek Markets one of the top spots. At Hanuman, which has an outpost in Alice Springs, the touted trip through South East Asia runs from Thailand to India, informed by chef Jimmy Shu’s Sri Lankan upbringing. The strong Greek influence is found at local favourites like Kalidonis Taverna. In the past decade a hipper scene has emerged, good coffee and booze and small plates the trademark. PM Eat & Drink typifies this, with its modern aesthetic and sharp focus on seafood. Visit during the dry season (May to October) to enjoy the pop-up culture on the foreshore with the likes of Box Jellyfish Café and Salty Plum Café as well as dedicated food events like Territory Taste Festival in May.

Down in Yulara, Tali Wiru matches the stunning desertscape and views of Uluru with finely wrought dishes showcasing indigenous flavours.

South Coast, NSW 

It’s been dubbed the Oyster Coast – by a canny group of oyster farmers – but this is perhaps the crux of the draw to the south coast. It’s no coincidence that Rick Stein set up shop at Bannisters in Mollymook. The seafood-loving chef buys fish off the wharf at Ulladulla and has likened it to his beloved Padstow.

While Stein’s outpost has raised the profile of this coastal stretch, there are low-key options like Ulladulla Oyster Bar and Cupitt’s Kitchen, where chef Russell Chinn sources much of his produce from the Cupitt’s Winery estate.