When it comes to ultimate Australian experiences it doesn't get much better than this.
I can just make out the figure beside the 4WD as I turn off the narrow winding road and through the gates of Emirates One&Only Wolgan Valley Resort. As I pull up, I’m met by my Akubra-wearing guide, who welcomes me with a firm handshake. He transfers my bags and gestures for me to take a seat in the Keswick Green Land Rover Defender. It’s not long into our short drive to the main homestead he notices my sly attempt to check my phone (SOS only). “You’re on Wolgan time now,” he says. It’s a foreign concept that I’m all too ready to adopt.
We pass through a creek and continue on an unsealed road. It’s hard to believe that this ancient landscape, with its towering sandstone cliffs and rugged bushland, is a mere 3-hour drive from the congested Sydney streets. Flanked by the Gardens of Stone and Wollemi National Parks, the resort is well recognised as one of Australia’s finest luxury offerings. When Emirates opened the $125-million resort in 2009, they were quick to show just how Middle Eastern hospitality translated to the Australian scenery, doing so again when One&Only joined forces with the resort in 2014.
Three years on and life at the resort is flourishing. Located on a 2800-hectare reserve, the resort boasts some of the state’s best conservation work. And it’s paid off in more than one way. It’s green and there’s an abundance of wildlife in every direction. A welcoming party at the homestead fills me on everything I need to know and within a matter of minutes, there’s a drink in my hand as I take in the Jurassic surrounds from the elevated verandah.

Forty freestanding Queenslander villas pepper the vista below, but don’t be fooled; this is Australian bush luxury at its best, rocking chair and screened breezeway included. The one-bedroom villas feature heated indoor private pools, spacious bathrooms with stargazing skylights in the shower and double-fronted fireplaces. A four-poster bed overlooks the valley and an unfazed group of kangaroos; immediately it’s noticeably quiet. Adapting to Wolgan time is made even easier thanks to the lack of reception in the valley, proving to be a modern blessing. Free wi-fi throughout the property keeps you in the know though, meaning that uploading that envy-inducing Instagram shot is as simple as ever.

I’m here for a special weekend with RM Williams, which kicks off with drinks back in the main homestead, followed by a degustation dinner. The resort offers two dining options – the Wolgan Dining Room which makes up the better part of the main homestead and the Country Kitchen on the ground floor beside the generous outdoor pool, offering a more relaxed, providore-style dining experience. Counting London’s The Savoy and Lindsay House as her credentials is executive chef Nancy Kinchela. Working wonders in the kitchen, Kinchela sources as much of the resort’s produce as possible within a 160km radius. A dish of beef tartare arrives with a golden brioche crumb and truffle mayonnaise ticking all the right boxes for a night of good food and wine, while a pumpkin, ricotta and spinach tortellini basking in sage butter is as good as any you’d find in Italy.
The chill of winter isn’t enough to keep us from partaking in an evening of stargazing. We take a buggy drive down to the resort’s original 1832 homestead that has been painstakingly restored at the cost of $2 million (it helps when you have Emirates as your backer). We gather around a fire and with mulled wine and hot chocolates in hand look into the heavens. Our field guide points out some of the major constellations, and we can even observe Saturn – rings and all – which I keep track of later on as I shower under my stargazing skylight.
Early morning breakfast in the Wolgan Dining Room takes shape as buffet-style and a la carte offerings. With a full day scheduled, I opt for a hearty serving of French toast. We meet in the resort’s lobby and head out to the stables for a morning ride. We’re joined by RM Williams’ head of Heritage and Homeland, Terry Goodear, as we saddle up for a two-hour adventure through the resort’s reserve, followed by Billy tea and damper over Australian bush stories.
With its kick-back attitude, guests can choose to partake in as few or as many activities as they please and those looking for a night-in won’t go hungry either. If a long soak in the bath is calling, enjoy your dinner with a glass of red by the fire without leaving your villa. Private dining provides the ultimate luxe experience – think: dinner under the stars perhaps, or a private picnic by day expertly crafted by Kinchela and her team.

A number of daily activities ensure all your bases are covered during your stay. Take part in a conversation excursion and contribute to preserving the resort’s 2800-hectare reserve while learning about the unique Greater Blue Mountains ecosystem. Guided nature walks with an accompanying field guide offer the best way to see the property, as you traverse the reserve and immerse yourself in the surrounding landscape, picking up insights from your guide on the natural and cultural significance of the area. Adventure seekers meanwhile will revel in the guided hikes through river crossings and grasslands as well as the resort’s horse riding activities, taking guests on a scenic track through ridgelines and over hills. And as those who have been before will tell you, finish your day by rewarding yourself with a rejuvenating mountain aromatherapy massage at the resort’s indulgent spa facility.
The only downfall during my stay is that I have to leave. As I turn back onto the main road ready to climb up the valley, I notice the helipad and think I’ll save that option for next time.
Emirates One&Only Wolgan Valley, 2600 Wolgan Road, Wolgan Valley NSW 2790, (02) 6350 1800, oneandonlyresorts.com
October Wellness Month:
During October the resort is offering special wellness packages for those looking to get a little extra R&R. Opt for a yoga retreat with Kate Kendall (13-15 October) or for the ultimate getaway take advantage of the Sodashi wellness weekend (27-29 October).
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