When chef and restaurateur Daniel Ridgeway first proposed the idea of opening a fine-dining restaurant in a sleepy Gold Coast suburb, his family and friends gave him an unequivocal answer.
Gold Coast
A new food scene has sprung up on the Gold Coast. With the Commonwealth Games months away, lifestyle writer Lindy Alexander meets up with local chef and restaurateur Daniel Ridgeway to find out which venues get a gold medal.
When chef and restaurateur Daniel Ridgeway first proposed the idea of opening a fine-dining restaurant in a sleepy Gold Coast suburb, his family and friends gave him an unequivocal answer.
“Everyone told me I was crazy,” he says. “There was nothing like that around here.” Ridgeway went ahead anyway and opened a modern European restaurant. “I named it Little Truffle because it was a tiny gem away from what was then the riffraff of the Gold Coast,” he says. “We were the jewel on the highway.”
Fast-forward seven years and Ridgeway’s success has been magnetic. Stylish new venues are opening every week as the Gold Coast sloughs off its reputation as a glitzy destination only good for roller-coasters and surf clubs. The climate and geography mean the growing season is long, and perfect for bespoke producers. You’ll find everything from finger limes to camel milk.
Ridgeway now owns six restaurants along the Gold Coast, with more to come. “I am a restaurateur with multiple venues, but I’m a chef first and foremost,” he says. “If I don’t get into the kitchen for a few hours each day, I get a bit agitated.” When in an apron, the chef likes to cook European-style food, but when dining out he can’t resist Japanese. “I eat out about four times a week and I do love great sushi or a sashimi platter,” he says. “But the truth is, there are so many great places to eat now on the Gold Coast.”
In a renovated charcoal and white timber cottage sits Paddock Bakery (20 Hibiscus Haven, Miami). “There’s a beautiful backyard with big trees to sit under, and inside there’s an amazing bakery serving awesome coffee,” says Ridgeway. “Even if it’s raining, people are still lining up to get in.” The heart of the cafe is the woodfired oven with bakers mixing, shaping and cooking the loaves. The free-range soft-boiled eggs with sourdough soldiers served in pink or blue egg cartons are a huge hit with kids and adults alike.
Ridgeway likes to grab a piccolo, or, depending on the day, a double piccolo from No Name Lane (16 Charles Ave, Broadbeach). “It’s a little cafe that does great coffee,” he says. “I try to keep it to two a day, but with coffee this good, that’s hard.” The unassuming decor, simple menu and tucked-away position place the spotlight entirely on the coffee.
If you think the guy pouring beers at Balter Brewery (14 Traders Way, Currumbin) looks familiar, you could be right. World champion surfer Mick Fanning, together with six mates, created the sleek but welcoming brewery with its exposed brick and copper and concrete fittings. Particularly striking are the floral splashes on the cushions and the tropical Hawaiian-style wall mural, which signals it’s happy hour with a ‘hot city cold beer’ motto. “We are cheerleaders for the good beer movement,” says co-owner Stirling Howland. “We want to make a legacy for the Gold Coast.”
Etsu Izakaya (2440 Gold Coast Hwy, Mermaid Beach) is a little slice of bustling Japan hidden behind a sliding stable door and a swinging red lantern. “Estu is so funky, it feels like you’re in a nightclub in Japan with awesome food,” says Ridgeway. Perch at the long concrete bar, sample the huge range of sake and Japanese whisky, and let the experienced waiters bring you a selection of raw, fried and grilled delights. Ridgeway’s pick is the sashimi. For vegetarians, the oyster mushrooms cooked over binchotan charcoal pack an umami punch you’ll remember for days.
When Amy and Holly Prosser were travelling in Portugal, they were regulars at a little gelateria. One day, the owner invited them to watch him make his iced treats… and the rest is history.
Back home, the sisters opened Heven-yah Gelato (Shop 2/2387 Gold Coast Hwy, Mermaid Beach), where they sell their house-made, small-batch gelato and sorbetto featuring seasonal and unique flavour combinations like cultured creme fraiche and raspberry jam. As for the maestro who taught them the tricks of the trade? “We’re hoping to go back and visit Pedro next year,” says Holly. “He’ll be so proud.”
“Mamasan (3 Oracle Boulevard, Broadbeach) is an Asian fusion restaurant that really pulls it off,” says Ridgeway. “It’s such a great fit-out and the curries are amazing.”
Ridgeway’s go-to dishes are the Wagyu beef red curry and the pork bao buns filled with twice-cooked pork belly, pickled cucumber and sriracha chilli mayo.
Among the warm timber, concrete floors and brass accents are touches of Asian decor that owners Lauren Mitchell and JP Duitsch have picked up on their travels. Mamasan refers to the imposing photograph of an Indonesian woman gazing over the dining room. “I like to call her the lady in charge,” says Mitchell.
When you put five kitchens, two levels and one (long) menu together, you’re in for something special. Housed in an old post office with abundant light and outdoor areas, games for kids, and a rooftop bar with 360-degree views, The Collective (1128 Gold Coast Hwy, Palm Beach) is the place to go when your group all want to eat different cuisines. “We believe in having lots of options,” says director Jeremy Davidson. “We found five of our favourite local food operators and invited them to open a side business.” Ridgeway’s pick is The Italian Job. “They do great pizzas with quality bases and authentic, minimal toppings,” he says.
Local favourite Justin Lane (1708-1710 Gold Coast Hwy, Burleigh Heads) is a light, airy pizzeria and pasta restaurant with a buzzy rooftop bar overlooking the ocean. “Our pizzas are all about the base,” says venue partner Pete Tayler. “They are 100 per cent sourdough that has been cold-risen for 48 hours.” The seafood pizza is the most popular on the menu, adds Tayler.