Sugar, and its happy by-product, rum, may be Bundaberg’s most famous exports, but the rich, red earth of the North Burnett region supports an impressively large horticulture industry.
Bundaberg
It may be famous for its rum, but Bundaberg – and the fertile central Queensland region it sits within – is also home to a vibrant, cosmopolitan food and drink scene. Food writer Natascha Mirosch investigates the area’s incredible variety of fresh produce and meets the passionate people make the most of it.
Sugar, and its happy by-product, rum, may be Bundaberg’s most famous exports, but the rich, red earth of the North Burnett region supports an impressively large horticulture industry.
From The Hummock, the highest point in these parts, you can look out over patchwork fields that stretch to the horizon. Not only sugar cane, but farms producing sweet potatoes, tomatoes, blueberries, beans, brassicas, ginger, melons and strawberries, as well as orchards of lychees, macadamias, pecans and citrus. To the east is the Coral Sea, where the local fishing fleet trawls for reef fish and prawns, while further north is cattle and dairy country.
Bundaberg sits serenely in the midst of this abundance; a gracious city with a surprisingly cosmopolitan air, thanks to the united nations of backpackers who come to work the farms and the many out-of-staters who’ve moved here for Australia’s most equitable climate and the relaxed lifestyle. With a genuine commitment by locals to supporting their own, there’s an enormous range of artisan products on restaurant menus, in local shops and at farm-gate stalls, from smoked bottarga and XO sauce to pickled local ginger and beef fed on barley sprout. Your best option is to think like a local and explore.
A warning – all other strawberries will taste pretty ordinary after a visit to Tina and Bruce McPherson’s Tinaberries (15 Zinks Rd, Bundaberg). Glossy, highly perfumed Camarosa and deep-red Festival varieties are picked at the perfect moment of ripeness (no green bits here!) and hand-packed on site. Most then go straight off to premium markets in Sydney and Melbourne, but you can buy at the farm during the June to October growing season or, in September, get into the fields and pick them yourself.
A former Salvation Army warehouse is now the craft brewery home of the Bargara Brewing Company. And The Brewhouse (10 Tantitha St, Bundaberg) is the perfect spot to while away a few hours sampling Bargara’s 100%-rainwater-brewed beers. There are about a dozen on tap at any one time, with quirky names like ‘Rusty Roo’, ‘Thirsty Turtle’ and ‘Drunk Fish’. Make sure to try the ‘Ginja Ninja’, a warming real ginger beer made from local spice that, as the name suggests, delivers a kick. Soak up the amber nectar with bar snacks like crack-your-own macadamias, salume plates and pizza.
Amanda and Larry Hines, revered former owners of the award-winning Indulge Cafe (80 Bourbong St, Bundaberg), may have moved on after 13 years, but it’s business as usual under new owner Mitchell White, Amanda’s former sous chef. White, who’s been at Indulge for eight years, continues the Hinds’ legacy of championing Bundy farmers, with much of the cafe’s produce coming from within a few kilometres. That’s when it’s not being delivered straight to the kitchen door by the farmers themselves.
Most items on the highly seasonal menu are made in-house, including bread and brioche, pastries, granola, fruit curd, ragu, relishes and preserves. The coffee is brewed from single-origin Jasper beans.
On Friday nights and every third Sunday afternoon of the month, Bundaberg’s old marine college transforms into the Riverfeast food market (1a Scotland St). Locals and visitors alike gather to kick off the weekend as the sun sets over the Burnett River, eating, drinking and stocking the pantry from stalls selling everything from dips and dukkha to crisp pork belly, paella and pulled pork tacos. Two on-site bars pour local craft brews, while live music keeps everyone entertained.
Even though it’s only two years old, Bundaberg’s Winterfeast (July 7-16) has already become an essential diary date for locals and just as many out-of-towners. Created by Amanda and Larry Hines (ex Indulge Cafe), there are more than two dozen events to choose from during the 10-day celebration of the region’s produce – from long-table lunches and elegant Champagne soirees to food tours, public picnics, markets and more. Tickets sell out quickly, so sign up to the newsletter for info on dates and events.
The Grunske family have a long fishing history and still own their own trawler.
Visit their fresh seafood market and restaurant, Grunske’s by the River (11e Petersen St, Bundaberg East), for renowned local prawns, Hervey Bay scallops from just up the coast, crabs and bugs, and a wide range of wild-caught fish. Or have them cook up fish and chips for you – perfect with a cold beer at one of the outside tables overlooking the river.
In 2014, Josh Philips and Zoe Young had what they call “quarter-life crises” after a trip to Hawaii – subsequently throwing in their 9-to-5 lives and buying 4.5 hectares of rich, red Childers earth to set up Ohana Winery and Exotic Fruits (1 Cottonwood Close, Childers). Visit for cellar-door tastings of the wines and liqueurs the couple makes from their own fruit or locally grown seconds, or book a tour of the impressive orchard, home to jackfruit and ice cream bean trees, jaboticaba, black sapote (chocolate pudding fruit) and other exotic fruit.
Even if rum’s not your drink, a tour of the Bundaberg Rum distillery (Hills St, Bundaberg) offers a fascinating view of the history of a Queensland icon that was born in the 1880s thanks to the ingenuity of a band of sugar millers.
If you’re an aficionado, take the opportunity to create your own blend under the tutelage of expert guides. You’ll combine rum aged in different barrel types to make a personalised blend, then take away two bottles of your creation to enjoy at home.
From the outside, you’d never guess that the gorgeously eclectic homewares and gifts store Bean@Saskia (4/133 Bargara Rd, Bundaberg East; [07] 4152 1002) also has a popular cafe out back. Simple but satisfying breakfasts include corn fritters with sour cream and local bacon, and French toast with berries and cream. Once you’ve satisfied your appetite, head back in for furniture, artisan ceramics, jewellery, clothing and more.