Tables are set within the tangled canopy of an extraordinary century-old fig tree. Kangaroos and possums may well be on the guest list. The natural wonder of KI is seen at its best in a dining experience run by Nick Hannaford, part of the family that have been custodians of this property at Snelling Beach for several generations. Each summer and autumn, he works with a hand-picked selection of chefs who each put their own spin on proceedings, which begin with snacks and a drink in a converted shearing shed. Then it’s down to the tree, where the twisted boughs and dense foliage have created a series of magical chambers, for a series of larger courses that will feature locally grown ingredients. If your timing is right, that could even mean the figs growing right above your head. gastronomodining.com.au
15 places to eat, drink and sleep on Kangaroo Island
The natural splendour of Kangaroo Island has seen it consistently finding a place on must-visit destination lists. Alongside the pristine beaches and encounters with wildlife, however, a strong food and drinks culture is developing that is an attraction in itself. Simon Wilkinson hopped on over and compiled the 15 best places to eat, drink and stay.
Kangaroo Island Spirits
A pilgrimage to one of the birthplaces of the Australian gin industry should be on the bucket list for lovers of the juniper-infused spirit. The original ramshackle outbuilding, used by founders Jon and Sarah Lark, is still home to the cellar door but distilling now takes place in a larger, modern facility as the company’s new owner scales up production. A seat under the old pergola for tastings, and a walk through the Sensory Garden of gin aromatics, remains an essential part of the experience. kangarooislandspirits.com.au
False Cape
No, False Cape isn’t by the ocean but its stunning outlook in the heart of the Dudley Peninsula’s farming country is an attraction in itself. A cellar door hand-built from old stone, galvanised iron and salvaged timbers echoes this rural heritage, as does the resident menagerie including sheep, geese and an alpaca. Wines are made by the Folletts of Lake Breeze at Langhorne Creek thanks to a family connection and include pinot grigio, cabernet merlot and a dry rose. Try a tasting flite out on the lawn and partner it with a house-made pie or Asian noodle salad. falsecapewines.com.au
Busy Bees
KI’s Ligurian bees might not be native (they were brought across from Italy in the 1880s) but they have thrived in isolation and are now the world’s best remaining example of the variety. Swarms of these hard workers are busy across the island collecting pollen from eucalypt and other flowers depending on the season. The result of all their labor can be sampled at Clifford’s Honey Farm, which offers a wide range of honey and wax-related products and cute bee paraphernalia. Sampling owner Jenny’s luxurious honey ice cream is worth the 20-minute drive from Kingscote alone. Island Beehive, meanwhile, has a larger range of products in more polished surrounds on the outskirts of town. cliffordshoney.com.au
Millie Mae's Pantry
The shade beneath a mulberry tree in the courtyard of Millie Mae’s is the perfect first stop after crossing to Penneshaw on the ferry. This space will remind you of the backyard of one of those annoying friends who can build anything, grow anything, and cook effortless food that is always delicious. Everything feels handmade, from the ramshackle structures of the pergola and larger dining space to the cakes and slices displayed at the counter. An egg and bacon panini, with a huge dollop of the house tomato relish, will put fuel in the tank for coming adventures, while the crisp, caramelised top of the banana bread suggests it must have come direct from the oven. Coffee is excellent but don’t forget the mulberry milkshake if it is on. milliemaespantry.com
The Islander Estate Vineyards
Globe-trotting Frenchman Jacque Lurton was a pioneer of KI winemaking and this head-start is reflected in the consistent quality and finesse of his Islander range. While some of the winery’s vineyards are still recovering from the 2020 bushfires, the cellar door, on the road out from Kingscote, is unscathed. Engaging staff will guide you through a tasting flite or sit out on the back deck overlooking a stand of eucalypts and graze on a DIY platter with a bottle of your choice. Springs Road, a short drive away, is also recommended. iev.com.au
The Oyster Farm Shop
One of surprisingly few places on the island to focus on seafood, this farm shop in American River has much more than the oysters that are raised on a patch not far away in the bay. Depending on the season, you might find grilled local king george whiting and abalini (baby abalone), as well as South Australian prawns, mussels et cetera from wider waters. The Aquaplatter is a good way to try a bit of everything. Tables have a sea view but are fairly rudimentary, while there is also fresh and frozen seafood to take away and cook yourself later. oysterfarmshop.com.au
Sunset Food and Wine
Put this highly talented chef and this drop-dead gorgeous setting almost anywhere on mainland Australia, and you would likely need to book a table several months in advance. Roll off the ferry in Penneshaw on Kangaroo Island however, and, 15 minutes later, you can be settled on a verandah bench and taking in a view across the dazzling waters of the bay below. Englishman Jack Ingram’s kitchen credentials include time at Vue de Monde and his classic training and connection to this landscape come together in dishes such as simply grilled King George whiting with an immaculate dice of tomato and zucchini, fronds of braised fennel and a puree that turns white beans into a luxury. With a nine-course menu for only $85, this is not only the best food, but also the best value to be found on the island. sunsetfoodandwine.com
Cactus Kangaroo Island
Cactus has everything necessary to set you up for a big day of exploring. The coffee is elite and breakfast could be anything from a house-made granola stacked with fresh and preserved fruits, to buttermilk pancakes, to a pulled pork quesadilla with fried egg for those with a serious hunger. Later in the day, the lunch selection is similarly eclectic, a moving feast that could include bao buns, soba noodle bowls and a couple of pasta options. Look out for the Mexican night-time pop-up over summer and always grab a Portuguese tart if they are displayed behind the counter. cactuski.com.au
Kangaroo Island Brewery
The big black shed that is home to the island’s only brewery stands out from surrounding farmland at the start of the North Coast Rd. Venture inside, however, and you will discover that, far from being industrial, it is built for comfort with plenty of couches and different spaces to sit. Order your favourite brew or a paddle of smaller tastes and spend time appreciating the clever way so many recycled and restored materials have been incorporated in the design. Earlier in the week, an excellent ploughman’s is served, while the pizza oven fires up at the weekend. kibeer.com.au
Amadio’s Vino e Cucina
Experience the warm embrace of Italian hospitality at this cheery trattoria in Kingscote that also serves as a cellar door for Amadio wines. Fabio Rocco Ricciardi, who was in-house chef for the Ferrari Formula One team, turns out classic dishes including eggplant parmigiana, veal cotoletta and a range of gnocchi and pasta. Tuscan braised lamb shank and a bottle of sangiovese should do the job nicely. Mangia mangia. amadiowines.com
Seafood without ceremony
WanderPods
Whether its soaking up the luxury of an outdoor bath, or flopping into a bean bag on the deck, or tucked up in the most comfortable of beds, the view from the island’s newer additions WanderPods is always compelling. It might be tiny birds flitting about in the dawn light, a storm rolling in from the west, the deep azure of the sea, or the flash of a distant lighthouse at night. Clinging to the top of the bluff above Snelling’s Beach, the quartet of pods are a masterpiece of maximum comfort and minimal environmental impact with every effort made to keep them sustainable. Stay in house and take advantage of the fully equipped kitchen and gourmet provisions or head to nearby attractions including the Enchanted Fig Tree. If Kingscote is your base, an upstairs room with balcony and sea view at the Ozone Hotel is another good option. wander.com.au
Southern Ocean Lodge
The new and improved Southern Ocean Lodge, rebuilt from the ground up after being destroyed in the fires, has reopened four years later, and remains the standard bearer for luxury accomodation on Kangaroo Island (and even across Australia). southernoceanlodge.com.au
Wander further
If a drive to the south coast won’t squeeze into your itinerary, head to Pennington Bay at the slender neck of land connecting the Dudley Peninsula and experience all the unbridled might of the ocean and spectacular carved cliff faces closer to hand. Time it right and you might even watch a pod of dolphins having a ball in the surf. Need to work off some of that wine/beer/gin tasting excess, take a walk on the track that follows the coastline from the centre of Kingscote around to Brownlow. Or follow the signs to the town’s tidal pool that is replenished each day with sea water and is set up for swimming 50m laps without the waves or weed.