The Southern Highlands gives good vista. The area’s rolling landscape offers shifting perspectives, with dense bushland or verdant pastures punctuated with pretty villages, such as Berrima or Bowral. Scenic it may be, but this hideaway ninety minutes south of Sydney was never cool. “The area has always had a tweed-jacket, fuddy-duddy reputation,” says acclaimed chef and local boy James Viles. Not any more. Since James opened his award-winning restaurant Biota four years ago, where ingredients are all grown in the kitchen garden and hothouse, foraged from the lush surrounds, or sourced from nearby farms, the area is looking more fresh-faced than ever. These days, the hills are alive with innovative chefs, restaurateurs and producers, who are attracting attention in their own right. “There is a really strong food community here that people don’t know about,” says James, whose first (and immaculate) cookbook Biota (Murdoch Books, $59.99) hits stores this November. “There are lots of young, vibrant people trying to do special things with produce. They are having a crack at it, and they are committed to doing things better. Our restaurant has grown with many of our producers – we are all helping each other.” Here is James’ pick of the crop.

While the restaurant at Biota (18 Kangaloon Rd, Bowral) is the Star attraction, the bar is an impressive supporting act. Skip the Australian wine list for a tempting cocktail. James makes all his own ferments and cordials, using seeds and plants. From a lavender margarita with lime and honey to a native pepperberry sour, you’ll find the perfect accompaniment to some amazing bar snacks, such as cheese croquettes and Smoked brisket toastie. For a more old-school drink Experience, head to Burrawang Village Hotel (14-16 Hoddle St, Burrawang), where they stock a range of local beers and ciders. On a sunny day, the terrace is the place to be.

“For me, it’s not enough that someone has a good product; I need to like who they are and what they are trying to do,” says James. Cressida and Michael McNamara of Pecora Dairy meet both criteria. The couple started making sheep’s milk cheese four years ago, and now has a flock of 130 East Friesian ewes on their farm at Robertson. Among their best-sellers are the Jamberoo Mountain Blue and a Basque-style semi-hard cheese called Mezza. “Sheep’s milk cheese has a sweet, clean flavour,” says Michael, who can be found with his wife every Wednesday at Kiama Farmers’ Market (Black Beach, Kiama Harbour).

Lovers of sparkling wine will find plenty to tempt at Centennial vineyards (252 Centennial Rd, Bowral), where winemaker Tony Cosgriff makes no fewer than six different sparklings. The citrusy sparkling pinot chardonnay is the perfect aperitif, or match the toasty blanc de blancs with seafood. There are also non-bubbly beauties, including a lovely Gewürztraminer.

Pinot noir and riesling are Souther Highlands specialties, but Tertini Wines (Kells Creek Rd, Mittagong) winemaker Jonathan Holgate has a penchant for lesser-known Italian varietals, including the aromatic arneis and full-bodied nebbiolo. “He’s a young winemaker who is going to leave his mark,” says James. Jonathan’s self-described “unashamedly old-fashioned” oak-and-barrel-fermented is also eminently drinkable and his award-winning rieslings and pinot noirs are, of course, superb as well.

At Small Cow Farm (70 Pearsons Lane, Robertson), Lesley and Mark Williams make award-winning cheeses, from marinated feta to creamy brie. They host regular cheesemaking workshops, too, but if you prefer the quicker route, pick up a selection at Il Topolino deli (281 Bong Bong St, Bowral).

Barbara and Ted Smith didn’t know what they were getting themselves in for when they started Yelverton Truffles (Yelvertontruffles.com.au) in Robertson. The spores of the black perigord truffles (Tuber melanosporum) have proven to be remarkably productive here: last year, they dug up the largest truffle in Australian history. Weighing an astonishing 1.172 kg, it was 128mg short of the world record. During truffle season from June to August, there are weekly truffle hunts, where the star of the show, jet the blue heeler truffle dog, noses out the buried treasure. Truffle tastings are also part of the fun. “There is no predicting how much you get, when you get it, or even if you get it,” say Ted of unpredictable truffles. The gleam in his eye suggests he wouldn’t have it any other way.

From the aroma of freshly brewed fair trade coffee to a menu that caters for vegetarians and gluten-free diners, there’s a lot to love about The Hospital shop (4 Mona Rd, Bowral), a charming little locals’ haunt tucked away near Bowral Hospital. The baked goods are a highlight, with daily changing options such as croissant bread and butter puddings with sour cherries and espresso, caramel and date muffins.

You may know your desiree from your Dutch cream potatoes, but what about midnight pearl? This distinctive purple spud is a winner for homemade potato chips (we’re talking about the crisp variety) and is one of around 40 varieties, including some real rarities, grown by Norm Gair and partner Robyn Jackson at Highland Gourmet Potatoes (46 Wildes Meadow Rd, Wildes Meadow). Much of their harvest is snapped up by top chefs, but you can pick up a bag for $5 at their farm gate stall during growing season from December to August.

“I have leaving a restaurant hungry,” says Luke Latimer of Onesta Cucina (2/3 Boolwey St, Bowral), explaining the generous portions he dishes up at his Italian restaurant. “My good is hearty, which suits a place like this, where it is cold up to eight months of the year.” Luke changes his menu regularly, but a handful of dishes have won permanent places on the menu including lamb ragu served with feather-light potato gnocchi and ale-brined lamb shoulder with a 63-degree egg.

Winemaker brothers Mark and Anton Balog of Artemis wines (46 Sir Charles Moses Ln) have always been ahead of the curve. They were the first to plant pinot noir in the Southern Highlands and today the winery’s Close Vine Pinot Noir is a regional highlight. They also run Sunshack Cider, featuring unusual flavours such as feijoa and elderflower. The latest string to their bow? Bee Mead, a refreshing range of sparkling mead made with honey.

A premier wedding destination with luxurious accommodation, the Bendooley Estate is renowned for its excellent restaurant, excellent wines and the Berkelouw Book Barn, which is one of the most spectacular libraries of rare books in the country. The Southern Highlands has the perfect climate for pinot noir and this vineyard’s offering is no exception. Pretty views of the lake and manicured gardens from the cellar door make this a charming tasting experience. 3020 Old Hume Hwy, Berrima bendooleyestate.com.au