It’s a five-minute drive from my hotel on the Cairns waterfront – or a few streets from the CBD fringe – to the railway station, and all is quiet when I arrive. Luggage check closes 30 minutes before departure so I’ve arrived 45 minutes early to avoid any stress; there isn’t a touch of it in sight. I wheel my suitcase down the platform to where efficient luggage handlers whisk it away and give me a ticket in return, then I’m free to linger and enjoy the morning cool. Boarding is 15 minutes prior and we’re welcomed aboard by super-friendly staff. White chocolate and butterscotch muffins, still warm from the oven, are served as soon as we’re seated, then, as punctual as a Swiss train, we roll out of the station bang on schedule.

The Spirit has two classes of travel: economy reclining seats and premium RailBeds. I’m in the latter and it brings to mind business class on a plane, a spacious pod-style seat with oodles of leg room that converts to lie-flat bed at night (a turndown service prepares beds with sheets, doona and full-size pillows). There’s a reading light, tray table, drink holder (water bottle supplied), footrest, headphones, headphone jack, power point and USB charging port. Seats are configured in pairs on one side of the aisle and singles the other. Overhead compartments suit small bags; checked baggage limits are two 20kg bags for RailBed passengers and one 20kg bag for economy. (I was able to try out the RailBed service to Townsville; however, typically RailBeds are reserved for long-distance legs to Brisbane.)

Seat-back screens are a sizeable 18.5 inches, and on-demand entertainment includes movies, TV programs and music. The range isn’t massive but there’s certainly enough to keep me occupied. With no on-board wi-fi, and the train often passing through remote regions, coverage is intermittent and passengers are advised to download any personal entertainment before boarding. Of course, the other main entertainment on offer is the scenery, and the Spirit’s huge windows offer wonderfully unobstructed views. We soon glide past the appropriately named Pyramid (a triangular 922m mountain), cane fields, banana planation, woodland and farmland dotted with the odd weatherboard. I even spot a small marsupial bounding into the bushes (pademelon, maybe?).

RailBed seats include meals, with two choices offered for each course – similar to an in-flight service except all food here is cooked fresh on board. For lunch, I opt for spicy mango chicken served with a lemon myrtle rice pilaf and a glass of Queensland Sirromet sparkling that goes down very well. I skip dessert – vanilla bean panna cotta or teacake – but am kind of bummed I won’t be staying on board long enough to partake in the slow-braised beef and red wine hotpot being offered for dinner. Next to my carriage is the café car, which is fairly utilitarian but handy for extra drinks, coffee, snacks and takeaway meals (pasta, pizza, salads, sandwiches).

The service to Townsville takes six hours but those continuing to Brisbane are looking at a 25-hour prospect, so bathroom facilities, at the end of each carriage, are appreciated. While they won’t receive any style awards, they’re spacious and have an accessible roll-in shower with bench seat and plenty of hand rails. Personal organic amenities packs come with RailBeds, and towels are provided.

There’s a convivial vibe on board – perhaps helped by the fact there’s a group in my carriage. In any event, socialising is easy when you can walk around freely or join the café carriage. My six-hour journey flies by and I’m almost sad I won’t be staying on with my neighbours all the way to Brisbane.

What’s hot: If you’re going to commit to a long journey, seat comfort is paramount and the RailBed comes with all the bells and whistles needed to settle in for the long haul. What’s not: The shared bathroom facilities feel a touch “hospital ward” but are spacious and accessible for all users. Our final verdict is 8/10. A super-fun and stress-free way to travel, and with bonus scenery. This is an invitation to surrender to slow travel and just enjoy the journey. Economy seats from Cairns to Townsville are $50 and RailBeds Cairns to Brisbane start at $390. queenslandrailtravel.com.au