Known as Australia’s food bowl, Victoria’s fertile Goulburn Valley has been luring industrious folk to its elds since the early 1800s, when European migrants recognised its growing potential. Today, the regional hub of Shepparton and the surrounding towns continue to y the foodie ag, with orchards, olive groves and canola elds carpeting the landscape. Among the world-class operations of olive oil producers Cobram Estate and cannery SPC Ardmona, a host of boutique operators have come to the party, establishing wineries, dairies and bakeries that are supported by a growing band of city-smart cafes and restaurants. Shepparton local John Marsden is the chef and co-owner of The Teller Collective restaurant and neighbouring cafe/pizzeria Fryers Street Food Store. “We’ve noticed a massive shift in what people eat here,” says Marsden. “When we rst opened up, we’d only sell a few portions of quail a week, so we’d eat the rest for staff meal. Now we go through more than ten serves a night.” Gone are the days when diners would only want steak and three veg (although you will still nd exemplary rib-eyes and wagyu rumps on the menu). Today, Marsden and his team craft their own charcuterie, including rillettes, parfaits and brawn, paired with house-made pickles and chutneys. “I think TV cooking shows have played a huge role in people being willing to try new dishes. That has been a huge positive for us.”

Dynamic duo together with Co-owners ed and Ingrid Thomas, Marsden and his wife, Tracey, run not one, but two top-rated eateries. At the Teller Collective (55 Fryers Street – pictured) dine on charcuterie, tapas and med-style mains, such as paella or gnocchi with beef ragu. At Fryers Street Food Store (53 Fryers Street), kickstart your day with chickpea fritters, avocado salsa, poached eggs and dukkah, or pop in Thursday to Saturday nights for pizzas strewn with Shaw River mozzarella or pork sausage fontina.

The Goulburn Valley’s climate is supremely suited to growing olives. North of Shepparton, Cobram Estate boasts 2.4 million trees on 6500 hectares, producing top-quality oils sold at home and globally. Due east, Rich Glen Olive Estate (734 Murray Valley Hwy, Yarrawonga – above) is planted with 36,000 trees, including nevadillo, manzanillo, frantoio, kalamata and leccino varieties. Sample olives, dressings and cold-pressed and flavoured oils in the store then savour a farmgate platter in the sun-drenched garden.

Producers have found novel ways to use the region’s apples and pears. At The Cheeky Grog Co (5160 Barmah-Shepparton Road, Bunbartha), Mark and Jenny Morey have turned their hands to cider. “They use interesting fruits like Manchurian crabapples or Packham pears, which produce a beautiful pink cider,” says Marsden. “They’re also pouring ‘The Bin 27’ which they made their bottling line broke down, so it sat for six weeks and developed some really interesting characters.” Sample their drops at the cellar door, where they’ve built an alfresco area with old fruit bins.

Held on the 3rd Sunday of each month, Mooroopna Farmers’ Market (Ferrari Park, Mooroopna) offers seasonal fruit and veg, Angus beef, free-range eggs, 4 olive oils, jams and breads. Marsden also recommends Finer Fruit (35 Vaughan Street, Shepparton), where local produce is handily labelled. For fans of cans, there’s the SPC Ardmona Factory (197 Corio Street, Shepparton), brimming with locally grown tinned tomatoes, fruits and sauces.

At Longleat Estate (105 Old Weir Rd, Murchison), Guido Vazzoler makes food-friendly wines, including a smooth amarone, while wife Sandra crafts Italian-style cheeses. “You can go on the weekend and have a cheese plate while you try their wines,” says Marsden. He also tips Tallis Wine (195 Major Plains Rd, Dookie – pictured). “It’s a fantastic place. It’s on the top of the hill with floor-to-ceiling windows overlooking a patchwork of canola fields and red soil.” Here, enjoy a glass of red with a local cheese platter, or a botrytis riesling with some homemade cake, then follow the interpretive walking track for jaw-dropping views.

A cafe by day, the exposed-brick space that is Noble Monks (120-126 Maude St – pictured) transforms into a cosy bar on Friday and Saturday nights. “They’re doing really nice cocktails, like their sloeboat (left) with sloe gin, Sailor Jerry and cranberry, and local beers on tap,” says Marsden. “It’s somewhere I like to go if I ever get the night off.” Nearby, the astroturf covered balcony at new bar The Deck (Maude Street Mall) is also proving popular, serving craft beers and fruity cocktails in mason jars. “It’s getting really busy and it’s great to see local people giving it a crack,” says Marsden.

Third-generation baker Mathew Higgins is Marsden’s go-to man when it comes to good bread. “Mat’s one of the only people in town making genuine sourdough using traditional methods, as well as an awesome ciabatta” says Marsden. Call into Higgins Bakery (121 Wyndham St, Shepparton) for freshly baked loaves, buttery croissants (above) and hand-shaped bagels, plus classic pies, sausage rolls and slices.

For Bruce and Sue McGorlick, food miles become metres when they make their Locheilan Farmhouse Cheese (Central Mundoona Rd, Wunghnu). Their 150-hectare farm is home to 180 Friesian and Jersey cows, whose rich, buttery milk is turned into the camembert-style Wunghnu Soft, brie-inspired Kaarimba Soft, Stilton-esque Bruce’s Blue, Italian-accented Tarrill, crumbly Kulindi, smooth feta and the indulgent Triple Cream (winner of a 2015 delicious. Produce Award). Get your fromage at the farm gate from 10am to 5pm, Wednesday to Sunday.

If you’re traveling with a troupe, book Lakeside Holiday House Hide & Seek Winery (204 Murchison Goulburn-Weir Rd, Kirwans Bridge – pictured), a 40 minute drive south of Shepparton. Set on 40 hectares of bush with a private beach, this boutique abode sleeps 16 and features open-plan living, chic bathrooms, a barbecue, veggie patch and playground. For digs in central Shepparton, try refurbed Parklake (481 Wyndham St), where “the chef Chris is doing decent home-style meals, and the revamped rooms look fantastic,” says Marsden. Or opt for the convenient Quest Apartments (177-183 Welsford St) near Victoria Park Lake.

In a town of 8000 people, it takes a brave man to take chicken chow mein off the local Chinese eatery menu, but that’s what Brian Anderson did when he took over the pans at his mum’s retro-fabulous restaurant Yiche (77 McLennan St, Mooroopna). Today, Anderson draws on his Singaporean heritage and time at Melbourne’s Verge to craft cutting-edge Asian. Standouts include pork belly bao, prawn toast with sea urchin bechamel and ginger doughnuts with orange marmalade ice cream (above).