Once a gateway to the Great Barrier Reef and Daintree National Park – two of Australia’s most prized natural landmarks and both World Heritage sites – Cairns and its surrounds are now destinations in their own right, and they’re hotter than ever. Tropical North Queensland, as the region is evocatively known, serves up elegant beach strip Palm Cove, larger glam Port Douglas and rainforest haven Mossman to the north, and the Atherton Tablelands, the region’s rich agricultural belt dotted with fine produce doors, to the west – and all just a few hours drive by car. Cairns has grown up, too. The city’s international airport attracts over two million annual visitors and many clock a few days in the attractive and progressive regional capital at a luxury hotel before setting off for the world’s largest coral reef and oldest living rainforest. Former Melburnians Nick Holloway and wife Amy were keen for a sea change when Nick’s business partner suggested the area. That was in 2004. Since then, he’s become the region’s hallmark chef and restaurateur for his award-winning restaurant, Nu Nu, in Palm Cove, which moved up the road to its new world-class beachfront location about a year ago. “I just love it here. The region is beautiful, bold, vivid and alive,” says Nick. While Nick and the local indigenous people will tell you that there are six distinct seasons in Tropical North Queensland, most visitors plan their trip in the overarching dry season between May and October. With temperatures over 25 degrees and blue skies daily, winter never looked so good. Nick lets us in on his top food and drink picks in the tropics.

Every Friday, Saturday and Sunday, the region’s passionate producers make their way from Atherton Tablelands and the old sugar cane farmlands to Rusty’s Markets (57-89 Grafton St) in Cairns. “It’s a community hub,” says Nick, who makes the weekly drive from Palm Cove to hand pick produce for Nu Nu. From taro to rambutan and sapote, the selection of exotic seasonal fruit and vegetables is extensive, and prices are rock bottom. “I’ve only missed three since I started going. It’s a must-see.” It starts closing up mid-afternoon, but there are a handful of permanent food stores open all week.

Ramen disciples will find a temple for worship in downtown cairns. Hole-in-the-wall Ganbaranba Noodle Colosseum (12/20 Spence St, Cairns) specialises in tonkotsu ramen, with flour noodles made to owner Kyoko Sato’s specifications in nearby innisfail. “It’s the best ramen I’ve had outside of Japan,” says Nick. For Nick’s fave, order the ‘Ikemen’ after a serving of top-notch gyoza.

Head down ‘graffiti alley’, nicknamed for the cafe’s hip commissioned artworks, to Nu Nu alumnus and Australian barista comp judge Oliver James’ (pictured) Caffiend (5/78 Grafton St, Cairns). “It has hands-down the best coffee in Cairns and a great vibe,” says Nick. Food is off-the-hook too, with breakfast options like miso scrambled eggs garnished with nori, bonito and Japanese pepper shichimi, and caramelised banana bread with coconut gelato and coconut caramel sauce.

After a long day, stroll the Esplanade to Cairns Marina for killer bay views and refreshing drinks at Salthouse (above – 6/2 Pierpoint Rd, Cairns). “It’s one of the best locations in Cairns to unwind and down a sunset cocktail,” says Nick of the Cairns institution. Grab a spot and settle in with a happy-hour mojito as the beats begin to play.

“The recently refurbished Alamanda Palm Cove by Lancemore (1 Veivers Rd, Palm Cove), adjacent to the new Nu Nu site, is elegant and spacious, and a must-stay,” says Nick. You’ll appreciate the one-minute stroll (or roll) to your room after one of the chef’s four- or seven-course tasting menus with paired wines. The bright palm-filled resort is also perfect for families, with self-contained one-to-three-bedroom suites and three pools.

For a casual lunch or evening drinks head to Vivo Bar and Grill (49 Williams Esplanade, Palm Cove). Generous plates of Asian-influenced food, such as pork belly with green mango salad, are a hit but it’s the verandah, where groups take up residence for long afternoons, that is the main attraction here. Book ahead to avoid disappointment.

The selection of premium single origin coffees, roasted nearby under their label Four Mile Roasters, is one reason to visit Origin Espresso (21-23 Warner St, Port Douglas). The other is the daily offering of house-made drinks on tap, from pineapple and mint kombucha to hand-pressed local sparkling cane juice (above). Oh, and the funky fitout, complete with tables repurposed from old timber pallets, and retro chairs.

Sandwiches are the go at The Little Larder. With stacks of colourful options, from Korean-inspired beef barbecue baguette to a wholesome brown rice and tahini vego sambo, there’s something for almost every food predilection. Nick’s top pick? The Reuben made with warm, thick cut wagyu corned beef.

Brit expat Spencer Patrick trained under Marco Pierre White before swapping London for sunnier surrounds. Make time for a long lunch at Harrisons (22 Wharf St, Port Douglas), where French technique meets local produce in dishes such as ‘flora and fauna’ featuring yabbies, eel, taro and accompaniments (right) and there’s a knockout view. “He’s a kindred spirit and has the only other pedigree restaurant in the region,” says Nick. Try Spencer‘s casual Italian place up the road, Bucci, (41 Macrossan St, Port Douglas).

With its offering of over 145 acres of private coastline and eucalypt woodland, wildlife tours in the on-site nature reserve and panoramic views from the treetop bungalows and main restaurant, you could easily while away a few days at Thala Beach Nature Reserve (left– Private Rd, Oak Beach) without venturing out. Or, use the eco-certified resort, a stone’s throw from Port Douglas, as a base to explore the tropics, including Cape Tribulation further north.

Spend a night at eco-glam Silky Oaks Lodge (Finlayvale Rd, Mossman) overlooking Mossman Gorge River and you’ll want to set up camp permanently in the forest. The villas are perched among the trees for breathtaking views and birdsong, and there’s self-guided kayaking for the adventurous. “It’s premium, serene accommodation, with great food to boot! All the kitchen staff at Nu Nu rave about it,” says Nick. A candlelit dinner in the breezy Treehouse Restaurant might include elegant produce-driven dishes, such as potato and Brie ravioli (pictured) and crayfish taglioni, plus there’s a generous included breakfast.

Twenty minutes out of port you’ll hit mossman gorge, the southern-most part of daintree national park. It’s also home to the indigenous kuku yalanji people and The Mossman Gorge Centre (212 Mossman Gorge Rd, Mossman), where a guided dreamtime walk through the stunning rainforest will introduce you to incredible native foods. “It’s a must-visit attraction that gives insight to a land and time before european settlement,” says Nick.