8am: Market magic

Start the day wandering through brightly coloured displays of fruit and vegetables at Valencia’s Central Market (Plaza Ciudad de Brujas). Pull up a stool in the midst of the action and have a breakfast of grilled bread with smashed tomato and jamon at Ricard Camarena’s Central Bar.

9am: Silk degrees

Don’t miss the Lonja de la Seda or Silk Exchange (Calle de la Lonja) across the road from the markets. Three historic buildings surround a courtyard perfumed with orange trees. It’s easy to picture the wealthy merchants haggling over prices in the magnificent Contract Hall, where carved stone columns spiral to a vaulted ceiling.

10am: Garden path

Take a walk through the Turia Gardens, an old riverbed that has been transformed into a 9km strip of parks, sporting fields and walking paths that connect much of the city. Children will want to climb over the giant fibreglass ‘Gulliver’. Soon you’ll reach the City of Art and Sciences, a series of giant shells of concrete and glass that house an opera house, interactive science museum and acclaimed aquarium among other attractions.

12pm: Coffee stop

Head to the shops in the Colón area in the old town for international brands as well as local treats. Horno Pasteleria Casaní (Calle Jorge Juan, 12), one of the city’s best bakeries, produces rustic woodfired bread and houses a large cafe for a quick brew.

2pm: The real deal

Grab a taxi and head out of town to a restaurant you won’t find in the guidebooks. Alquería del Brosquil (Entrada Casa el Llarc 1, Pinedo) is set in an old orange orchard amid the rice fields and market gardens just south of the city. Arroz meloso, a bold-flavoured clay pot of soupy rice to share, is a reminder of paella’s noble origins. Ring ahead and order the version with duck and spiced blood sausage. Keep it authentic with a siesta after lunch.

8pm: Mussel power

Get in early or grab a number and wait for a seat at the chaotic La Pilareta (Calle del Moro Zeit, 13). This tapas bar’s specialty is clóchinas, small local mussels, but the grilled cuttlefish and other seafood are also exceptional. For a more ‘serious’ atmosphere, try the bright red Spanish taverna La Salvaora (Calle de Calatrava, 19), which has a well-priced tasting menu including crispy artichoke hearts with saffron aioli, or the hidden gem, tiny El Columpio (Calle Cordellats, 6) where the menu has modern influences.

11pm: Night moves

While you might be ready to head back to your hotel, many locals will start heading out about now. The Ruzafa district is one of the liveliest and Calypso (Calle Carlos Cervera, 9), Electropura (Calle Pintor Salvador Abril, 20) and Xtra Lrge (Gran Via de las Germanias, 15-17) are top spots for generous cocktails and people-watching. Beware the spirit pours judged by rule of thumb rather than official measurement!

Looking for something to drink while travelling in Spain? Check out our wine guide to Spain here.