On a recent sailing of the Greek islands on Celestyal Cruises, I had a day to spend on the island of Santorini. As a returning tourist I knew what to expect: narrow walkways packed with crowds and lots of restaurants overcharging. So I made it my mission to find a restaurant on the island that delivered on three things: served up authentic Greek food, was decently priced and wasn’t overcrowded. 

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Cue: Aktaion. This isn’t a flashy spot you’ll find perched on the cliffside in the popular villages of Fira or Oia. Aktaion is the oldest restaurant on the island and has been serving people from its outpost in Firostefani since 1922. It’s about a 15-minute walk north from the main town of Fira and is not a restaurant you’d just stumble across as a tourist. You need to seek this classic Greek taverna out. 

In true taverna style, the bells and whistles don’t exist here – the hand-painted sign should give that away. Think blue and white chequered plastic tablecloths covered with paper tablecloth on top, walls plastered with photos of the three generations of family that have run the place and no more than 30-40 seats. Most of the tables are set up outside under a blue plastic awning and while the restaurant isn’t cliffside, it’s close enough that there are still views of the skyline and white-washed buildings just steps from Aktaion. 

What it lacks in “views”, it makes up for with the menu. Traditional Mediterranean food, and more specifically local Santorini dishes, is what Aktaion is all about. Dishes like freshly-caught octopus with fava (yellow split pea dip), skordo makaronia (pasta with garlic), homemade moussaka baked in mini clay pots and Santorini’s signature cheese, chloro, all feature on the menu as well as some of the island’s finest wine. 

You can’t visit Aktaion without trying the kalogeriko pasta, which is hand-made and another Santorini signature. If you were to compare kalogreriko to an Italian pasta, it would be related to casarecce, but thicker and straighter. There are three options on the menu. The local way of cooking kalogeriko is quite basic with tomato sauce, garlic, capers and caper leaves. Light, fresh, and delicious. 

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But we recommend trying either of the two additional options to understand why Aktaion remains one of the best. You can order kalogeriko with squid that is generously covered in a thick ouzo and mastika sauce or kalogeriko paired with a variety of mushrooms topped with grilled manouri (semi-soft, Greek cheese) and truffle oil. Both dishes are rich in local flavours, but are different in taste to the Greek dishes you know and love. Forget the cinnamon-y, nutmeg-y flavours of the south of Greece or the lemon and oregano flavours of other islands, here it’s the earthy flavours of what this volcanic island can grow and produce that are highlighted. So if you want to get a real taste of the Santorini, sans crowds and exorbitant prices, head to Aktaion. You can thank me later. 

Aktaion is open six days a week for lunch and dinner, and on Sunday’s for just dinner. During peak season it can be hard to secure a spot at Aktaion, but you’re able to book a table via the restaurant’s website, aktaionsantorini.com

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